Project TKO

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Youngster

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
83
This project is called TKO (Tchnical Knock Off) It's a '27 modified. The inspiration for this build comes from an illistration by Dale Klee.

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I like to have 90% of a car on hand before I start so I've been pickin' parts up for the lastcouple of years. I've had it mocked up a couple of times before. The last time I did it, the car, and friends, said "What are you waiting for?" So here we go.Here's acouple of pics of that mock up.

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Ron
 
As I said, the body is the front half of a '27 Touring. The frame is one of my T bucket frames with a 13" kick and a '27 rear crossmember.

The front end is a dropped Model A axel with the spring over it and 30" hair pins. Spindles are '40 Ford as are the brakes. The steering is a '51 F-1 box mounted in the cowl. The steering wheel is a $2 swap meet piece cut down to 14".

The rear end is a '42 Ford pickup, open drive unit that will mount a T rear spring. Above the spring is an oval T gas tank, followed by a Model A tail light.

The engine is a '56 Ford 292 with a '39 toploader converted to open drive. It will be running an Edelbrock 3-2 intake and valve covers. The engine is a 3000 mile factory rebuilt that was pulled out of a restored '56 pickup. I wanted a flathead but for $300, I couldn't walk away.

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Here's the T rear crossmember with the tail light bracket.

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Ron
 
Thanks guys. The car behind is a circa '33 dirt track car. I work on it every now and again. Plans are to run a Ford 4 holer, most likely a Model A. The front end is a'33 ford and the rear is Model A. The wheels will be 18" and 19" Ford. I'm using the door extensions from a '46 Chevy to build the tail piece now. need to find a pair of '42 to '48 Chevy front fenders to finish it. Here's a pic of the nose. It started out to be one of those"I wonder if I can..." pieces.

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Ron
 
Just a short up date.

I'm working on the front suspension now. Because i didn't want to bend the spindle arms, I decided to run the tie rod thru the hair pins and in front of the cross member. The problem here is the Speedway bat wings won't allow the tie rod to go to full lock.

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The fix is to modify the bat wings. I thought they looked a little crude anyway. I cut a filler to add to the inside of the clevis and then trimmed the back for tie rod clearance. As long as I was at it , I added some weld here and there till I had what I was lookin' for.

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This is what I ended up with. I like it!

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Also picked up some tires for this set of rims I got a few years ago. Fronts are 165SR15's and the rears are 235R15's.

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That's it for now. Cya later.

Ron
 
Nice job on the batwings Youngster. The wheels and tires look sharp too. What gauges are you using? I can't quite make them out in the photo.
 
lokkin good man! Do you think it would be hard to just make a set of bat wings like that from scratch?[been thinking of trying to make some like that for my T] what typ of stering box are ya gonna use?
Have you ever herd of anyone useing an s-10 manual box on a T?
I wanna put pot steering in it mabie?
do you have any cheep radiator suggestions?
 
Sweet!

Youngster,
Very nice projects. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to more. I've always wanted a banjo rearend like that and am inspired. Thanks!

Beercan
 
The guages are SW odds and ends I found at local swaps and on the bay.

I'm using a '51 F-1 steering box mounted in the cowl. I haven't heard of anyone using an S-10 box, but that dosen't mean it can't be done.

I've seen a '65 Mustang radiator used on a T with a chopped Deuce shell. It seemed to work out pretty good. I've also heard there is a Ford tractor cooler froma 5000 or a 6500model that fits in an A shell. I guess they sell for about $100. That's about the same price as a new Mustang unit.

The banjo rear end in mine is out of a '42 pick up. When you're shopping for one, look at the flat spot on the front of the center housing. That's where you'll find the gear ratio stamped. Some are 4:11 and some, like mine, are 3:56's. The prices vary on these rear ends. I've seen them for any where between $100 to $250. They were mounted on parallel springs in the pick ups. You will want to use hair pins or a 4 bar set up in your rod though. I wouldn't trust the old Ford bones with an open drive.

I'm thinking the hard part of making your own bat wings would be the tapered bore for the perch pin. You might be able to use the clevis' from a stock set of bones, say from a Model A, for those pieces and just whittle out the cresent shaped part from some 3/8" stock. I just might have to look into that for the next build.

Ron
 
Time for a little up date. Been busy with other folks' projects so progress has been slow. Got it up as a roller today so I thought I'd post pics.

Here's a shot of the very rare Harold quickie.

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The front axle with the 4th perch. Yup ...built 3 others that I didn;t like. The gizzmo on the front axle is just to hold the frame at ride height while setting up the rear end.

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The rear axle with the quickie.

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That's pretty much it for now. Next are the friction shocks for all 4 corners.

Ron
 
I wanted the tie rod to run inside of the hair pins. The axle isn't any further ahead of the front cross member than a suicide mount with the spring behind the axle. Don't have to reshape the spindle arms this way.

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Bought the bat wings from Speedway. The tie rod hit them before full lock so I added a piece in the web and remove enough from the back for clearance.

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I thought they would look better with a little welding and grinding too.

Ron
 
Your modifications to the bat wings really improves their appearance. A very nice custom touch borne out of necessity.
 
Sorry Gastrick, It was a trick question. I've been watching for a quickie for the last 6 months. New units are fetching $1300 and used ones aren't but a couple hundred less. Being retired now, that kind of money is hard to come by. I started digging around in my scrap bin and found enough to build this fake. I've got $0.00, nothing, ziltch in it.

The name is in memory of my Dad. He passed away 9 years ago. My brother and I have custom built parts for our cars and inscribed the "Harold" logo on them.

Ron
 
Ha, thanks lol. You had me searching the internet for info. I thought I was losing it. Pretty cool thing you and your brother do with the "Harold" logo. Again, nice work.
 

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