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Got the body mounted (took WAY longer than we thought), tightened the 4 link rear end, mounted the steering box. While drilling the holes we lifted up the rear end and took a pic....maybe we should leave it, (huge rake)
 

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Got the body mounted (took WAY longer than we thought)

Nobody ever said it was easy to mount a unibody on a frame :)


While drilling the holes we lifted up the rear end and took a pic....maybe we should leave it, (huge rake)
I think take about half the rake out, and gain the rake in the suspension so your frame isnt hanging down low.

Looks killer though!
 
Nobody ever said it was easy to mount a unibody on a frame :)

I think take about half the rake out, and gain the rake in the suspension so your frame isnt hanging down low.

Looks killer though!

It wasn't easy to get the body mounted took half the day but it's bolted on now. We wanted to be able to remove the body, so we took our time and made sure it would be removable..

The frame sits really low, our lowest point seems to be the Vega steering box?!!:confused: I'll attach a pic...It sits 4-5" off the ground, the rear frame sits about 6" off the ground...not sure if that is too low to make it reasonable to drive as the wheelbase is long! Thoughts?
 

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It wasn't easy to get the body mounted took half the day but it's bolted on now. We wanted to be able to remove the body, so we took our time and made sure it would be removable..

The frame sits really low, our lowest point seems to be the Vega steering box?!!:confused: I'll attach a pic...It sits 4-5" off the ground, the rear frame sits about 6" off the ground...not sure if that is too low to make it reasonable to drive as the wheelbase is long! Thoughts?

As long as your box isnt below the scrub line, you should be okay. Now if that box was hanging below seat area of the frame, you could bet that the first speed bump would make that thing scrap real quick :)
 
Where we are now: 4 link brackets boxed, body mounted, (ignore the piece of tubing just sitting there), had to modify (shorten) the grill I made, created the radiator support bars (that actually just bolted in?!)

Bonus pics: Brother and my dad using the Speedway tubing bender, and my brother showing the proper way to grind a washer down.
 

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As long as your box isnt below the scrub line, you should be okay. Now if that box was hanging below seat area of the frame, you could bet that the first speed bump would make that thing scrap real quick :)

I will need to double check but i'm pretty sure if we were riding on the rim, the box would still be off the ground..
 
Question?
We are using the stock 78 chevy drum brakes for the rear and the 40's ford drum brakes on the front. What type of master cylinder do you think I can use? I really don't know that much about brakes. I was going to use a VW beetle master cylinder but I'm not sure that it will be up to the task. Any thoughts?

-GeorgeV
 
Brakes

Question?
We are using the stock 78 chevy drum brakes for the rear and the 40's ford drum brakes on the front. What type of master cylinder do you think I can use? I really don't know that much about brakes. I was going to use a VW beetle master cylinder but I'm not sure that it will be up to the task. Any thoughts?

-GeorgeV

How much do you thinks it's going to weigh? I really don't think the stock VW master cylinder will work
 
IMO, I would use something like a Chevy pickup master cylinder. Maybe an early 70s that would go for a non-disc front system. You may need a proportioning valve(spelling?) to make it work right. I believe you can get an adjustable valve so you can get the right front/back settings. You are correct on the VW cylinder. It ain't enough. Way too small for the big truck wheel cylinders. Good luck. Later.
 
That's the problem I had too. There's absolutely nothing there to even fake a firewall. I had a bunch of old computer cases I'm piecing together, along with an old cheap shelf. Gotta use what's handy. Looking good. You'll get thru with yours long before mine is done. Good luck.
 

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