What type of Paint?

[Anglianut]

Alright, I need the help of the body and paint guys. I have a model A that is down to bare metal. What type of primer should I use? Do I need to seal the metal before I prime? Last, what brands and types of paint would be best for someone with minimal painting experience?

Thanks!

 

[hussey]

I'm new here and I'm not body guy but I thought I'd share what I've learned with some of my research.

Check out PPG products DX579 and DX520. They're metal preps that clean etch and leave a zink phosphate coating prior to priming. I think some guys call these wash primers. Folling prep you'd seal the metal with an epoxy primer. Then following the epoxy primer you can use higher built 2k primer.

You also may want to check into another product called Master Series. They have a metal prep that leaves a zink phosphate coating. Thier primer is a sealer and "paint over rust" primer. They claim much higher salt spray corosion resistance than the traditional sealing methods. I'd have to know someone who's used it to be a true believer but the science they claim seem's believable.

http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/primer/

Another very similar product is rust bullet.

Hope is got this somewhat right, I'm sure some much more seasoned guys will chime in.

 

[Old Dude]

You might try the old school method. I'm assuming it's now rust free? If it is, wipe it down with the old metal prep. It's green stuff in a gallon jug. Get a heavy fill lacquer primer, it fills lots of sanding marks, put a couple of coats on. Then lightly water sand with a 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. Blow off with an air hose. Make sure you have a good water trap on your air compressor. Wipe down lightly with a rag with Lacquer thinner. Then use a tack cloth. Now, Shoot the whole thing with a coat of lacquer. This will do 2 things to help you in further body work on the car. You can see dents, scratches ect. It also seals the primer so it doesn't suck up moisture. It doesn't matter what color lacquer you use, as long as it isn't the same color as the primer. Learn how to use body hammers, picks, dollys body files and slap files. If you have to fill over an 1/8", you need to do more hammer work. If you have to grind a spot to bare metal again, use a propane torch to flash off moisture on the metal. Flashing means just wave the flame quickly over the metal. You will actually see the moisture run before the flame. Think about this: Moisture under anything will never go away, just turn back into rust and you get to do it all over again. Some people swear by a non sanding sealer primer. I swear at it. I could write a book on some of this old school body and paint.

 

[Gearhead10]

DP epoxy primer from PPG is about the best to seal bare metal. Prep it good before spraying by wiping it down with a wax and grease remover and then run a tack cloth over it. If ya need to fill prime be sure you do that within a few days or you'll have to scuff the epoxy before primer.

 

[CR55]

Talked to a friend who is a Pro painter and Rod builder, has been for 40 years. He said to NEVER , NEVER use laquer thinner to wipe down a car. It will guarantee your paint to fail. Simply epoxy 1st and then do your bodywork. In today's world laquer is a no no. It will fade fast from the ultra violet rays. Hope this helps...CR

 

[Old Dude]

You will probably get a dozen ways of how to do your project. I stand by mine as others will stand by theirs. Is there a perfect way to do this? The truth, is NO. Way too many variables to answer the question with a yes.

Try this: Try it any way you want to. Then choose the way it seems to work for you.

 

[WUWU20]

DP epoxy primer from PPG is about the best to seal bare metal. Prep it good before spraying by wiping it down with a wax and grease remover and then run a tack cloth over it. If ya need to fill prime be sure you do that within a few days or you'll have to scuff the epoxy before primer.

I've been in the field for close to 30 years now, DP epoxy is the stuff, hands down...ol, don't use anything thats laquer based....nothing!

 

[CR55]

Heres a response from a Pro painter. Makes sense to me![cl

"call any paint mfg and ask about cleaning with lacquer thinner. they will tell you lacquer thinner is not a cleaning solvent."

 

[bob w]

Lacquer is my friend. All other paints hate me.

 

[Old Dude]

It was not my intention to get into any whizzing contest with anyone. In re-reading all the posts, I can not see where I said anything about wiping down a bare metal body with Lacquer thinner. No where did I say that the final coat of choice color should be Lacquer. I do all my bare metal paints in a lacquer based heavy fill primer. I always let each coat dry overnight in a warm/heated shop. After doing the final water sand, I let it dry overnight. I take an air hose and blow off all the dust. Then I take a clean rag that has been dampened with Lacquer thinner and lightly go over the whole car. It takes care of any oil that your hands might have left on the car. I hate fish eyes in my cover coat. Then a tack cloth. Rarely do I use Lacquer for the final color coat. If the primer has dried thoroughly, then and only then do I shoot it with Centari acrylic enamel with hardner. Sometimes I have to use a retarder in the paint if it dries too fast. I have never had a paint job come back or crinkle up on me. I use a DeVilbis #71 for my color coat and a Binks #7 for my primer gun.

If anyone was led to believe otherwise, my bad. Like I said before, everyone should do it the way they like to do it. I will continue to do it the way I have been doing it for the last 45 years.

 

[Anglianut]

Hey thanks for the input. This at least gives me a direction to start. I have also been talking to one of the local auto parts houses that sells paint and they are going to hook me up with some local guys to help me iron out the bugs.

 

[streetrodman]

paint

if it "rattles", use it......it is a ratrod right?

 

[darkk]

Here's my suggestion. What ever brand of paint you have available or are going to buy...use the system that company provides. Most automotive paints are comparable in quality to each other. There are of course exceptions to every rule, And I'm sure someone is going to point it out. But use one system and you will have little to no problems....And I am an old retired body repairman.