1933 chevy tudor sedan aka Project Copper Tone!

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Got most of the brakes going. Still need 2 more pieces of brake line but NAPA is out of the 5 foot long and our Oreilys doesn't carry any longer than 3 foot or so the counter guy says. Anyhow, here's some pictures.

Proportioning valve mounted, still have to run a die over it to make more threads and cut it down to size.


Brake line and residual pressure valve.


Rear brake line mounted to the upper frame rail. Ran it down the passenger side because I didn't want all my lines running in the same area.


Rear brake line mocked up. The new soft line comes in tomorrow round noon along with the front soft lines.


And all my lines attached to the proportioning valve.


Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of the front lines and a few of the more "complicated" bends. So far, I'm liking how clean it's coming out. After I get the brake lines all ran, I'll run my primary fuel line. That'll be a lot easier just cause I don't have to deal with all of the flares. Turns out, I'm a bit rusty on fouble flares lol.
 
Looking good, I was able to use all pre flared line from the advance auto parts. They have it in all different lengths and every time I tried double flaring it leaked. But I have done very little brake line flaring, just glad they have these lines as a option
 
We'll have to see if any of them leak. I highly doubt they will. The issue I ran into is that I am so OCD that I wanted them to look like they were made to go where they are. Even if it meant spending 30 minutes in a 4" piece of line. But yeah, when NAPA gets more line in I'll pick some up and finish the brakes. I may end up running my fuel line tomorrow. I still need a new pump, alternator, and carb. Did I me ruin I scored a factory 4 barrel manifold for 140 bucks?
 
Got my last piece of line in and filled/bled the system. Had a few leaks but after a little more tightening they all sealed up!!! Woo hoo!!! I think for the next time I have to do a complete brake system I'll buy te Eastwood tool. I went through 3 dies to get all my flares made. But that's okay cause now I can really flare tubing lol. This weekend I'll run my harness and set the body back down on the frame for good.
 
Well, not much progress. I decided that I was going to drop the body back on the chassis prior to running the wiring. Number one reason, I want to mount my fuse block in the cab that way it's more easily accessible. Number two, I don't have an alternator or ignition system at the moment. So instead, I'm going to swap out te intake manifold, clean up the engine a littl, and then drop the body back down. Here's a few pics of the vacuum and fuel line routed.





 
endicott_jb said:
772D3B9B-262A-4A0F-B8ED-C96C24829D36_zpshjv7vaop.jpg
Click to expand...

You may want a longer bar for your rear panhard, I think the rule of thumb is less than 1" of threads showing on spherical rod ends.

Great build, I'm looking forward to getting back into my (somewhat less ambitious :eek:) project, myself. [;)
-Chaz
 
Clamor, that panhard bar looks like a three point hitch top link off of a tractor so it is made out of really tough stuff, but you spoke of an engineering rule of thumb. Could you explain that, as there will be panhards in my future.
Endicott, I hope you got an aluminium four barrel intake, because those cast iron FE intakes are hernia-erupting heavy. They are nicer to put on without the cab on there as the back gasket is a pain to keep on the narrow little dike it has to sit on. Keep on tinkering, you're on the right track.
 
MercuryMac said:
Clamor, that panhard bar looks like a three point hitch top link off of a tractor so it is made out of really tough stuff, but you spoke of an engineering rule of thumb. Could you explain that, as there will be panhards in my future.
Endicott, I hope you got an aluminium four barrel intake, because those cast iron FE intakes are hernia-erupting heavy. They are nicer to put on without the cab on there as the back gasket is a pain to keep on the narrow little dike it has to sit on. Keep on tinkering, you're on the right track.
Click to expand...

The threaded rod ends are made to give fine adjustments for length, not to add length. With as much thread that is showing in his panhard, I'd wager that he's got more thread out than in.

If you think about factory set ups, panhards are generally solid with bushings at either end. The side-loads from hitting bumps is pretty significant.

Similarly, if you look at a factory adjustable piece, say a tie-rod for instance, there's going to be probably less than half an inch of thread showing at each tie-rod end and the adjustability is only there for dialing in alignment.

-Chaz
 
Thanks Clamor for clearing that up for me. I was focusing on the 1 inch threads showing, and not how much is held in the female threads. It makes sense to me now. I believe Endicott will be OK as those top links are made of good stuff and I think the threaded rods are long enough to touch in the middle when screwed right in, so even screwed out that far, they will still be completely engaged in the female threads.
Endicott, my hat's off to you on getting good at making double flares in tubing. Maybe they get easier to do when you know what you're doing, but I get rectal pain out of double flaring.
 
Good looking build endicot! Just wondering about your transmission though.... Are you going to have room to put a slip joint in the middle of your driveshaft? I haven't seen a real good side shot showing how much room you have in between your trans and rear end...
 
Thanks for all of your inputs. I can always weld a tube around the panhard to make it longer. As for the driveshaft, I have the rear slip shaft from the 76 that I have to get cut down. There's 44 inches between the transmission yoke and the axle pinion. I'll be taking the driveshaft to the machine shop tomorrow.
 
Sent the driveshaft off to the machine shop today. Should be done by next week. Then I can drop the body back on the frame and start my wiring. I am not looking forward to wiring at all. In other news, a scored a Holley 750cfm carb with very little run time for dirt cheap. I really hope it works on my "big block" ford. Also got my valve covers painted to match my intake. Sure do look pretty. I'll take a picture once they're dry and on the engine.
 
Sounds like you got everything in order, sucks on how long it takes for your driveshaft. My local shops turn them out within 4hrs of drop off.
 
Got my driveshaft back on Thursday and got my valve covers put back on the engine. Today I dropped the body back down for good. This weekend, if I don't end up working through it, again, I'll start tackling the wiring. Still gotta figure out how I'm gonna mount my taillights. But soon and she'll be done. Unfortunately, the show I was gonna debut her at is on the same day I leave for a business trip so looks like it won't be hitting the show scene until next year but it'll definitely be done this summer. Here's a couple of pictures.



 
Well, didn't get around to the wiring this weekend. Decided to do a bunch of other stuff instead. Didn't even look at the car. Woke up early today so I went out to the shop and started putting the back section of the interior together. Started with the passenger side and that's as far as I got lol. Tomorrow I'll tackle the drivers side and then the rear. Once I get it all together the window frames will go in for good and I'll fill in the channels. I was thinking about putting in lexan but with the rear needing to be open it'll look more copacetic if I just fill the channel with sheet. Here's how the passenger side is turning out.

 
Well, made a lot of progress this weekend. I actually bucked up and got out to the shop to work on the old girl. Got the entire back section finished in. Still have to fill in the window channels but it's pretty much done on the inside. Got my passenger seat mounted. If you recall earlier in my thread I was gonna use seats from a jeep cj-5 but found some boat seats that would work much better. So I figured out how I was going to mount them and still have access to my master cylinder and battery, well the solution was a piece of 16 gauge and the barn door hinges that were directly mounted to the seats. And to keep them in place, two 5/16th bolts welded to my framework. Also decided to spray the entire back area black to keep it from rusting out. Next I will install my fuel tank and start on the drivers side seat. Anyhow, here y'all go.















That's it for now. Any and all comments or suggestions are always accepted and appreciated.
 
Coming together nicely endicott, will not be long now. I like the truck bed floor idea and wheel tubs, looks unique.
 
Looks good. I'm guessing you puppy will be glad to hear it run so he/she doesn't
have keep pulling around, :eek:
good joke with good ideas. [cl
 

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