I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
That 18 ga says a lot. I can see your thinking now. Carry on.
I wasn't being a wise a--, just curious. I need to do some of that rusty
replacing stuff myself.
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
That 18 ga says a lot. I can see your thinking now. Carry on.
I wasn't being a wise a--, just curious. I need to do some of that rusty
replacing stuff myself.
DJ3100
Well-known member
POPS, I appreciate your questions and suggestions - keep'em coming. I never thought you were trying to be a wise a--.
Actually, I hadn't thought of leaving the panel - that may be possible. I could cut out the mounts, weld in some structure on one side or the other and weld the mounts to that.... maybe
Torchie
Well-known member
Looking great.
If you think 1955 Ford welds look bad you should see 1941 Ford welds.[ddd
I'm thinking that's why Ford used to rivet everything.
Torchie.
If you think 1955 Ford welds look bad you should see 1941 Ford welds.[ddd
I'm thinking that's why Ford used to rivet everything.
Torchie.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Rear body mounts
Here's how I was lifting the rear
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Here's how I'm lifting it now
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Here's a closer pic of the problem
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It took over an hour to get the panel loose. I decided to cut it about 2" down and overlap the new panel about 1". That way I would not have to deal with the tail gate attachment points.
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I cut the new panel out of 13 ga. with a cut-off wheel. To create the flange I perforated the bend line so I could bend it down. Can't really see much in this pic.
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Welded the perforations.
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Ground the welds
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It fits up and down, now I have to work on the in and out.
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I am not sure of the front to rear location of the mounts. They were bent up and one was 3/4" further back than the other (probably from sitting on the horses - I'm lucky they didn't break off and dump the body on the ground).
That's a problem to solve tomorrow.
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Here's how I was lifting the rear
Here's how I'm lifting it now
Here's a closer pic of the problem
It took over an hour to get the panel loose. I decided to cut it about 2" down and overlap the new panel about 1". That way I would not have to deal with the tail gate attachment points.
I cut the new panel out of 13 ga. with a cut-off wheel. To create the flange I perforated the bend line so I could bend it down. Can't really see much in this pic.
Welded the perforations.
Ground the welds
It fits up and down, now I have to work on the in and out.
I am not sure of the front to rear location of the mounts. They were bent up and one was 3/4" further back than the other (probably from sitting on the horses - I'm lucky they didn't break off and dump the body on the ground).
That's a problem to solve tomorrow.
GJunktionMike
Something's wrong with that boy!
A ton of work so far, looking good.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Rear body mounts
Thanks Torchie and Mike
When I finished Thursday I had nothing the set the rear of the body on. The cherry picker bleeds down over night so I propped it up.
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Found the rear wheels of the picker off the ground - looks like a disaster waiting to happen. I really need to finish the mounts before I quit for the day.
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Used some 3" square x 3/16 wall tube to make the body mounts. The flange is welded to the mounts
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I needed some relief to get the panel flush with its mates. Hydraulic press, spacers, and pusher block.
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Got this
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A while later it's welded in
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The view from the back of the car is a mess. Patch panels on top of patch panels. I was able to set the new mounts on the horse - mission accomplished.
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Thanks Torchie and Mike
When I finished Thursday I had nothing the set the rear of the body on. The cherry picker bleeds down over night so I propped it up.
Found the rear wheels of the picker off the ground - looks like a disaster waiting to happen. I really need to finish the mounts before I quit for the day.
Used some 3" square x 3/16 wall tube to make the body mounts. The flange is welded to the mounts
I needed some relief to get the panel flush with its mates. Hydraulic press, spacers, and pusher block.
Got this
A while later it's welded in
The view from the back of the car is a mess. Patch panels on top of patch panels. I was able to set the new mounts on the horse - mission accomplished.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Coil overs
I am getting burned out with cutting, patching, welding, and grinding under the body. My head has run into nearly every lower hanging surface, I have grit in my eyes, and random weld berry burns all over. The real problem is that I am having trouble seeing that there will ever be an end.
But, I have vowed to stay with it until its done or until it rains again. GOOD NEWS it's raining!
The coil overs arrived Wednesday, but remained unopened - until now.
I had been working on the sway bar and had it clamped in a location that looked like it might work. Put the coil on one shock and bolted it to the lower bracket the check clearance.
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Ride height of these shocks are between 13.5" and 14.25". I picked 13.75. I'll be using the 1/2" bushing at the top and the 5/8 at the bottom. I made these. The washers are to get the 1" box the same width as the shocks.
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Bolted one in place. Looks like 10 degrees will give room to get the gas tank mounts in.
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I am getting burned out with cutting, patching, welding, and grinding under the body. My head has run into nearly every lower hanging surface, I have grit in my eyes, and random weld berry burns all over. The real problem is that I am having trouble seeing that there will ever be an end.
But, I have vowed to stay with it until its done or until it rains again. GOOD NEWS it's raining!
The coil overs arrived Wednesday, but remained unopened - until now.
I had been working on the sway bar and had it clamped in a location that looked like it might work. Put the coil on one shock and bolted it to the lower bracket the check clearance.
Ride height of these shocks are between 13.5" and 14.25". I picked 13.75. I'll be using the 1/2" bushing at the top and the 5/8 at the bottom. I made these. The washers are to get the 1" box the same width as the shocks.
Bolted one in place. Looks like 10 degrees will give room to get the gas tank mounts in.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
You've got it going your way and looking good.
That will out last the you, me and the rest of the car.
It's good that the weather at your place allows you to work outside,
unlike our northern friends.
Stay after it.
That will out last the you, me and the rest of the car.
It's good that the weather at your place allows you to work outside,
unlike our northern friends.
Stay after it.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Pilot point drills
I posted this in the tech section several years ago, but it's worth repeating.
This is a 1/2" pilot point drill. It will drill a 1/2" without a pilot drill - that means one shot and you're done even with a hand held cordless drill. I use it in my cordless, drill press and milling machine. It is also self centering just like a center drill.
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They work best in thinner stuff - up to 1/4".
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I posted this in the tech section several years ago, but it's worth repeating.
This is a 1/2" pilot point drill. It will drill a 1/2" without a pilot drill - that means one shot and you're done even with a hand held cordless drill. I use it in my cordless, drill press and milling machine. It is also self centering just like a center drill.
They work best in thinner stuff - up to 1/4".
DJ3100
Well-known member
I hadn't thought about that Pops, it doesn't have to last forever, it just has to outlast me.
I am fortunate that there has been beautiful weather all week - in the 60's in the am, reaching the high 70's in the pm. I wouldn't want to be out there in the summer, that's for sure. There has also been an unusual lack of wind which really helps with welding.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Summers are why people go north for the summer.
And winters are why they come to your part of the country.
And winters are why they come to your part of the country.
Torchie
Well-known member
Looking great and you are gaining on it.[cl
Never did a build yet that didn't have some aspect that seemed to never end.
When I finished the floor in my project I told my wife that long after I and perhaps even the truck cab are gone that floor will still be around. Kind of like a cockroach......
Torchie.
Never did a build yet that didn't have some aspect that seemed to never end.
When I finished the floor in my project I told my wife that long after I and perhaps even the truck cab are gone that floor will still be around. Kind of like a cockroach......
Torchie.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Coil over mounts
Got the upper shock mounts tacked in and the sway bar mounted. Drilling the 5/8 diameter holes for the sway bar took much of the morning.
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Just need to make brackets to hang the front of the gas tank and I'll be ready to take the rear suspension apart and weld it up.
Got the upper shock mounts tacked in and the sway bar mounted. Drilling the 5/8 diameter holes for the sway bar took much of the morning.
Just need to make brackets to hang the front of the gas tank and I'll be ready to take the rear suspension apart and weld it up.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Looking great and you are gaining on it.[cl
Never did a build yet that didn't have some aspect that seemed to never end.
When I finished the floor in my project I told my wife that long after I and perhaps even the truck cab are gone that floor will still be around. Kind of like a cockroach......
Torchie.
That's true, there is always something that seems to take forever. I have only done trucks before and I haven't tried to deal with the beds. There is sure a lot more body work in a long roof than in a truck cab.
The frame and suspension feels like it is moving along and going well ... and it's fun.
8literbeater
Well-known member
That's some nice looking stuff. It's a shame it's all going to be hidden.
Some of my stuff I wish was going to be hidden, but nope, it's all out there on display like a dissected frog.
Some of my stuff I wish was going to be hidden, but nope, it's all out there on display like a dissected frog.
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Some real nice stuff there DJ.........
where did you source that sway bar if you don't mind [dr
where did you source that sway bar if you don't mind [dr
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks.
The sway bar is from Paul Horton's Welder Series.
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/sway-bar-kits/
The sway bar is from Paul Horton's Welder Series.
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/sway-bar-kits/
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Thanks DJ..... again super build....
DJ3100
Well-known member
It didn't rain yesterday, but it was cloudy. Any excuse not to crawl around under the body.
I did get the front of the gas tank mounted - but forgot to take pics.
I spent the rest of the day welding on the 9" and prepping it for paint. This is the prettiest weld they don't all look like that. The ears by the pumpkin I had to MIG - the rest is TIG.
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Took longer to get the rest of the rust and gunk off than it did to do the welding
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I did get the front of the gas tank mounted - but forgot to take pics.
I spent the rest of the day welding on the 9" and prepping it for paint. This is the prettiest weld they don't all look like that. The ears by the pumpkin I had to MIG - the rest is TIG.
Took longer to get the rest of the rust and gunk off than it did to do the welding
DJ3100
Well-known member
Exhaust
Haven't had much time to work on the wagon. The weather hasn't been co-operative as far as painting or working on the body. I took some time today to putz around with the exhaust.
Yesterday these showed up. I got 3 of those U bends and 2 seven foot pieces of pipe. I already had 2 tighter radius U bends and a 6' pieces of pipe. I listened to all the sound clips on You Tube that I could find and decided on the HP2's. They are a lot shorter than I was expecting.
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Used this method to hold things in place. Had the stuff left from the headers.
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I made a slip on adapter to get from the 3" header to 2.25 exhaust. I plan on using the band straps to hold them in place. There wasn't room for the 3 bolt header flanges.
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Here's the plan at this point.
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These mufflers would fit behind the axle, next to the gas tank. But I don't think bigger ones would fit in the event I don't like how these sound. And I'm not sure it's a good idea to preheat the gasoline.
Haven't had much time to work on the wagon. The weather hasn't been co-operative as far as painting or working on the body. I took some time today to putz around with the exhaust.
Yesterday these showed up. I got 3 of those U bends and 2 seven foot pieces of pipe. I already had 2 tighter radius U bends and a 6' pieces of pipe. I listened to all the sound clips on You Tube that I could find and decided on the HP2's. They are a lot shorter than I was expecting.
Used this method to hold things in place. Had the stuff left from the headers.
I made a slip on adapter to get from the 3" header to 2.25 exhaust. I plan on using the band straps to hold them in place. There wasn't room for the 3 bolt header flanges.
Here's the plan at this point.
These mufflers would fit behind the axle, next to the gas tank. But I don't think bigger ones would fit in the event I don't like how these sound. And I'm not sure it's a good idea to preheat the gasoline.
