48 fire truck roadster

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Progress got back ordered.

I could only find a couple sets of under header, BBC spark plug wires and ordered the Moroso 9866 - they expect delivery November 26.

The local sources were either out of or don't carry the 1/4 NPS to 6 AN fitting for the trans cooler. So I ordered those adapter fittings, the hose ends and hose. Got all the fittings, but they back ordered the hose until November 26.

Went to Goodguys yesterday with the express idea of looking at and actually shifiting shifters. The Mr. gasket guy said they quit making their shifters. The B&M guy was actually a Flowmaster guy (G&M bought Hurst and they bought Flowmaster) and knew nothing about shifters, including the fact that they actually have a product called Street Rod Shifter. And there wasn't a Lokar display to be found. Genie seems to be in financial trouble or possibly out of business.
 
Progress: Flex plate and starter on.

Looked through the radiator hoses at O'Reilly's and came up with 2 that were the correct diameter and looked like they had the right bends. The upper was easy, just had to cut a little of both ends. (Thanks for the idea of putting the filler neck on the intake. This is a CSR.)

The lower was a little harder. I had to cut it in the middle and rotate it. I welded a bead around some 1 3/4" aluminum tube, and turned it on the lathe to make the ridge. Took about 2 hours, could have bought the hose mender for $15. Any how the lower hose clears everything and looks like it belongs.
 

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That looks great! I can't wait to see this one on the road.

You and me both!

Today was carb day.

I dragged out my collection of 1850 Holleys. I have 3 of them apart. On one the gaskets came off without a problem. I spent most of the day scaping, Scotch Briting, and brass brushing on the other two. The carb cleaner I got barely did anything. Brake cleaner worked better. Lacquer thinner and acetone - nothing. The last photo is the one I'm giving up on.

I do have 2 complete carbs ready to reassemble tomorrow.
 

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Here's the bed hinge with the spring that actually holds it open and one that didn't work laying on the table below it. Still have more work to do on it ,but at least it works.

The second photo is the popper.
 

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Saw Earthman yesterday and he reminded me I hadn't posted anything for a while. I've been busy trying to get all the details wrapped up so I can start the motor and there isn't a whole lot to show, but here's where I am:

I temporarily swapped the tunnel ram out for a dual plane intake and one of the rebuilt 600 cfm Holleys. I figured that if I was ever going to clean up the valve covers I should do it before they get oiled up on the inside - I spent a couple days polishing them.

The fuel pressure regulator came set at 14 psi, I need 4-5 psi - so I needed a gauge. The coil, plug wires and distributor are in - although I need to pull the distributor to pre-run the oil pump.

I removed the power steering pump and was able to reroute the fan belt so I didn't have to get another one for this exercise. Not having to deal with the power steering on start up is one less thing to deal with. I like the combo t stat housing and filler cap.

I got the Painless race style switch panel at a swap meet - it came in handy. The gauges, fuel pump, ignition starter and battery are wired. The tranny housing is empty.

And the shop is a total disaster - boxes, books, instructions, wiring stuff and tools.

I think I'll have a go at starting it tomorrow!
 

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I wasn't sure if the Mallory distributor and coil needed a ballast resistor or if it could run on straight 12 -14 volts. I emailed their tech support yesterday (Sunday) and go a reply a few hours later - that's some great tech support!

No ballast resistor is needed.
 
Got everything ready to go yesterday, bumped the starter and got a click, then a thunk; then nothing. Swapped batteries with the one in my 2000 Chevy, same result. Went to O'Reilly's and got a new starter, the one speced for the '98 GenVI 454. It's a high torque, miniature lightweight; much better looking little spinner.

It also uses bolts that don't fit any other starter - I had longer and shorter. Back to O'Reilly's for the bolts - which they didn't have. But, there got to be confusion as to whether they were metric or SAE. I had to go home and check (they are 3/8-16). This am went to Ace and got grade 8 bolts, extra thick washers and AN washers.

Starter works, engine turns over. So next I hit the fuel pump switch - no noise.
Got out the volt meter - it has juice. There's 2 bolts on the top of the pump - so I took them out. It looked like one of the brushes was not in it's socket - but maybe it fell out when I took the cap off. I turned the armature (or is that a rotor) and it seemed jammed up at first then turned freely. It was a real trick getting the brushes back in and the cap back on. But, then the pump worked.

Set the fuel pressure regulator and cranked the engine over. It's got spark and fuel, but apparently the spark is not talking the same language as the valves. Ran out of time. I am now armed with new info about setting the correct timing and ready to give it another shot tomorrow afternoon.

Oh, did I forget to mention there was fuel dripping out of the secondary throttle shaft? I'm ignoring that for now.
 
sounds like hot rodding! Oh and sounds like you have a stuck float or needle and seat on the secondaries
 
I wouldn't ignore the dripping fuel. When I first fired the 78 I managed to set it on fire. Given your frustrations you might just let it burn.:rolleyes:

Keep the fire extinguisher handy [cl!
 
I wouldn't ignore the dripping fuel. When I first fired the 78 I managed to set it on fire. Given your frustrations you might just let it burn.:rolleyes:

Keep the fire extinguisher handy [cl!

I better remember to roll it outside the shop so if it does catch fire I can let it burn.
 

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