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Don't forget the bed will drop it down more on the suspension, so take that into account when you are tweaking the stance you want.
 
Captain Moron: or the cat , get back out there & git ta work ! ! !
:confused: :eek: :confused: :eek:
OMG, Flat don't you dare kick the cat!!!
LMAO! Harley Earl will whoop your *beep* while you are sleeping if you did! LOL
 
Reason4,
Now you know I won't kick "Harley Earl", or "Aubie"

Inked,
I just don't have the equipment to make the flip kit with proper relocation.
Guess I'm gonna have to buy one.
 
Tok some different pics to post on the chevy truck forum and forgot to post them here.....

Sorry Capt. M, It ain't progress, just different angles.
 

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dont hate me if this sounds stupid....but do u think that you can take the front leaf spring hangers and unrivit them and turn then upside down and bolt them back on.....do u think it will lower it more?????


i like the new avitar too:D
 
That doesn't sound stupid at all Motomech,
There are several aftermarket kits that actually call for the front spring mounts to be removed, But instead of relocating them you would be replacing them with aftermarket pices. What the aftermarket is doing that for is to give them an anchor point to mount a four link system to.

It is funny you should ask about the front leafe spring mounts, I have been playing with the idea of relocating them anyway. I'm not 100% sure if it would do any different if the front spring mounts were turned up side down or not. The only drawback I could forsee with doing that would be having to redrill all the holes to remount it.

I tell you what, you got my mind working now, I will see if I can get some pics posted of how and where they mount to the chassis and post them. You might very well be on to something here.
 
I did this on an `80 GMC I had a few years ago. I removed the rivots, raised the front hangers until they hit the bottom of the bed, tacked them into place, then drilled holes and installed grade 8 bolts. I did the same thing to the rear hangers, along with putting the axle on top of the leaves.
I can`t remember how much it dropped the rear, but it was good.
All it costs me was the price of the new bolts. Sweet ! :)
 
Flatbroke,
I read this entire thread, I may have missed it, but how did you lower your front ? Just curious of how you did it and how much lower you got it.
My son is using a chassis like yours under his 48 F-1. He needs to drop it a bunch !
 
DonMan,
WOW, you read the entire thread. (thats a lot)
To answer your question, I don't think I ever said how I did the front in this thread. What I did was cut 2 rounds out of the front coils and it sits down nice.****Before you do any cutting, I want to warn you that 2 rounds is too much****(I was warned and didn't pay attention) The absolute most you should cut is 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 rounds. And any time you cut more than 1 round, You should really take the time to remove the mount on the LCA where the rubber bump stop goes. When you do that, it gives you a few extra inches of suspension travel. (That way you are not riding a "Goat Wagon")

If there is anything I can do to assist you and your son, Feel free to send me a PM and if I can't explain it here, I will be glad to help over the phone.

As far as lowering the rearend on my truck goes, If I can get it to set down level without having to pay 89.99 for a flpi kit, I am open to all suggestions and coaching.
 
It has leaf springs on the rear.
What I was getting at in my post above, I can put the rearend on top of the springs, but then I will have to pay for a relocation kit which keeps the axle from rotating out of place. If there is any way for me to get out any cheaper, I'm game for it. After all, I'm only in this truck for less than 500.00$ right this minute.
 
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I have some 3" lowering blocks and the u-bolts i`ll donate to the project if it will help you out , then all you should need is to weld a set of spring pads on the bottom of the axle , am I thinking right ?
 
If they are lowering blocks for a 73-87 Chevy truck I could make something happen with that.
Yes, you are thinking right.....But that is what the axle relocation kit does, It goes in place from the bottom of the axle and sits inside the existing spring pearch, plus it sets the axle about 1in AFT of the truck so the yoke does not hit the tail housing and bust it.

Did that make any sence at all ?????
 

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