Ford cab Chevy box

[Yardy]

Some Advice::: I'm thinking on useing a 36 for truck cab and fenders on a s-10 frame.But I don't have a box.I found 2 chevys late 40's to early 50's trucks with boxes with flare tops.
What would you think will these look ok together???
Sorry for not introducing myself earlier been mostly lurking! Yardy

 

[PORTnPOLISH]

If you plan to leave the fenders on it then it may look a bit off but not something that would be noticable to the untrained eye. Without fenders I don't think you could really notice at all. This is all imo so take it with a grain of salt.

 

[dmw56]

Should look fine. I used a 65 bobbed fenderless Chevy bed on a 51 Ford cab. Mostly because it was free.

 

[skull]

bed

if it's gonna be a rat/bobber truck it shouldn't matter on the bed!!

it would look fine.

Later

 

[Yardy]

Thanks on the advice!! I'm looking at boxes tomarrow!! Thanks Yardy

 

[Ol Blue]

I've seen one behind a model A cab. It had to be narrowed so the tailgate said CHEVLET.[cl

 

[Yardy]

Went to lok at them.One truck complete for 300 and the other without rear fenders for 200. I passed becuase these were 3/4 ton truck bodies. The boxes seem too big. Tell me if I did the wrong thing!

 

[hotrod preacher]

seems a little pricey--esp for rat-builders

you could build a bed with sheet metal and a bender (or have it bent) and weld it together yourself, then the fenders would be the only part you'd have to find......

 

[the reverend muddy grimes]

your best option is to find old truck bed trailers. most can be had for like $100 and u can use it as a trailer till you are ready to put it on the truck.

 

[Gregster]

A sheet of 16 guage sheet metal is all you need , then take it to someone with a sheetmetal brake . If you want the curl over the top of the bed weld a piece of conduit to the top then you have the roll . you can make your own end gate or buy an old one and narrow it . The bed sides should cost no more than $70 in material , the end gate is up to you . [ A little fab work is good for the soul !

 

[Willowbilly3]

A local metal shop would bend me up 38" bedsides for $75. I was going that route and weld on 3/4" square tubing to replicate the square roll of an older Ford. Then I found a freeby Model A box and cut it down instead.

 

[Skip]

I'm building a full fendered '38 Ford PU on an S-10 chassis. I got a 42 Chevy bed for $100 with a really nice tail gate. So, it will be a Forolet. The bed will be cut down to about 50 inches long, and I will have to tub it just a little bit to fit over the tires. Those fat Mickys will fit right in there. As soon as I get the picture thing sorted out, I'll put up a few of the build.

 

[Yardy]

I'm building a full fendered '38 Ford PU on an S-10 chassis. I got a 42 Chevy bed for $100 with a really nice tail gate. So, it will be a Forolet. The bed will be cut down to about 50 inches long, and I will have to tub it just a little bit to fit over the tires. Those fat Mickys will fit right in there. As soon as I get the picture thing sorted out, I'll put up a few of the build.

Skip
What year is your s-10?? Mine 96 ex cab with sbc,350 turbo.What motor are you putting in?? I need motor mounts.Where did you find yours??
Yes I can't post pic also but would like to see!!

 

[Skip]

Late Reply -- Sorry!

My chassis is an 89 short bed. I'm running an 84 Monte Carlo 305-4V . I used stock 2.? V6 mounts with the stock block mounts. I think the 4.? V6 mounts might work better, but my engine is in and the trans (turbo200) mounts to the stuck crossmember with the left side bolted into the back hole in the frame. In order to make mount installatio neasy, I cut a hole in the right side front of the crossmember to get a wrench in. There is already one on the left side for the fuel lines.
I cut the frame heads off back to the steering box. Turns out I didn't need to go tat far, but I coldn't tell at first. i would recommend not going past the mounting holes for the swaybars on the bottom of the frame head. The other modificatin I had was to trim some off the cab from about 8 inches behind the door hinges to fit over the frame. Now it sits right on the frame and the doors still look normal on the outside. There is some inner door missing, but it was rusty anyway. Won't get in the way of anything. 3 inch lowering blocks on the back brings the frame down to level with the engine and trans in place. It is looking like I will have about 7 inches of clearance along the running boards, nad maybe 8 under the chin. Not really slammed like some rides, but it is starting to look pretty good. I am going to try to use the stock Monte radiator set in with the tanks on the top and botton instead of cross flow like it was designed. I'll need an over flow tank and a separate trans cooler, but that's no big deal.

I'll post pictures as soon as the site will let me. Or I can e-mail some if you need them.