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Lol yeah I know. I have a very soft spot for flatheads. Although I would have loved to play with the 454 for a while it was the right move for me. After selling that and geting my speedway parts I only have $137 in everything I have so far. And I think I am get thing a nine inch Friday along with a c4 trans. Only cost there is a full dumpster of scrap metal and a bunch of pop cans.

Still in the air on what I am going to use for a body. I have thought about a brookville roadster 2829 truck but I don't really know yet. If I could fint a really nice A body I would go that rout . But then there is also a few 40 ford cabs around that would make a nice truck. I don't really know what I'm going to do yet other then keep plugging away on the chassis and go from there.
 
I can't believe I forgot to ad this picture
 

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I was at a car show a few weeks ago and a fella walks up ad says something about a V6 flathead. I thought he was daft [S
But, lookin at your pic, I can see why he said that [cl

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Parts keep rolling in. Fish plat needs holds drilled yet bit I'll do that when I mount the wish bones. Also I got a 8.8 exploder axel that will be delivered next week. So I think I will have a roller in the next 2 months. And with this add up of parts I'll be in to my project $175. Now if I could only sell my big block headers:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

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I really need to get a good camera or remember to take the I pad when I work on this thing.

Silly question tho I got my rear end bought still (waiting delivery). Question is do you guys mount them at a 3 degrees up? Or ? and also engine mounting should I off set the engine or is that not a worry about thing either? You know not have the engine and trans squaring in the frame?
 

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The angle of the rear end is determined by the angle of the engine.
Engine down in the rear = rear end same angle up at the pinion
3 Deg is the norm
Do not offset the engine unless you need to for clearance. Center it and square it.
 
Alright nother question. Fallowing speed ways instructions and still have ing no idea. I measured shackle to shackle and come up with 34 inches. Is 34" what I need to get for a spring length?

I did what the speed way instructions said and am still lost. :D
 
Better pic of what I am stuck on!
From shackle to shackle I measure 34 inches don't know what I need for a spring.
 

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No more jack stands for the front. I plan on making the perch a lot stronger. Right now it's only attached by a 1 1/2 inch area note nought off to the welding shop for steel
 

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Better I couldn't stand the ride hight of the old perch. So I measured a bunch and a bunch more then tacked it on Square. I do need to fix the passenger side wishbone mount it's a little over a 8 the inch shorter then the drivers side. I still need to figure out what to do about the rear suspension. Leaning towards a 4 link but not sure yet.and need to get the front break kit and tie rod before the rear end.
 

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I like what you are doing so far looks great. One suggestion, turn those steering arms around. Looks like you have room back there and it will actually handle so much better and you will be able to put a SoCal stabilzer on it that way and really make it handle well.

I have nothing against the tie rod out front, and have done a couple that way when there was no room behind. They drove ok that way, but it really does work out much better if you can tuck it behind.

If those steering arms put the tie rod where the wishbone is, you can get dropped arms to make it work. Just thought I would mention that before you get too deep into the build.Here is mm very similar front end setup, Speedway wishbones like yours too, and you can see how the tie rod clears.



Don
 
Arms are fine out front but may need some tweaks so it will turn properly.

Here is one of the best informative videos I've seen on setting up a proper suspension.

https://youtu.be/MpMgwbn6ctU

Yep, like I said, I have actually built two cars with it out front, but only because I HAD no room behind.......stuff was in the way. Otherwise, if you CAN put it behind, it is so much better in a couple of respects. First of all, the car turns better in places like parking lots because the inside wheel turns further than the outside wheel. Secondly, tires wear better with proper Aackerman geometry. (no scuffing on turns).

When we built my Sons blue t bucket, we put the tie rod out front, but after a couple of years we re-engineered it and put it behind, with a SoCal stablizer. It made it a whole different car. He can go over pot holes and RR tracks with zero issues now, where it was a little dicey before.

All I am saying is, it is PREFERABLE to put it behind the axle IF IT IS POSSIBLE, and his car looks like there is nothing in the way of it being there. We all try to help each other out on here, just making a suggestion that he may not have considered.

Don
 

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