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Yeah its a roof from an S-10 blazer, fits perfectly, came with the car. But I want a canvas snap-top so I can pop it off in the fall. Winters are really nice down here, great topless weather.
 
Proper Roof!

Got alot of work done on the roof. Finally welded up the rusted out rear section using old sheetmetal from the front roof sections I replaced. Got new wood strips in and put a coat of rust converter on it - can't afford to lose any more metal to rust, real thin in places.
 

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Proper Roof!

With the metal fixed and new wood in, I could finally make a proper vinyl snap-top. Used snaps from Lowes that screw into the wood, very easy.

No more putting on sunscreen to take a ride!
 

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Got some tin on the trans tunnel finally. No more roasted feet!

before & after...
 

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That's some tin bending you can be proud of. Looks real good. I missed the two previous projects. You did a good repair on that roof and the snap on top is a great idea.
 
That's some tin bending you can be proud of. Looks real good. I missed the two previous projects. You did a good repair on that roof and the snap on top is a great idea.

Thanks! One day when I'm feeling really ambitious I'll pull them out and get them copper plated. That would be sweeeeeet I think. :D:D
 
Looks GREAT!!!!

What was your sequence of doing your snap top...did you put the snaps on the car first, do the material first.????...Getting ready to do mine and have no clue what to do first!
 
Definitely screw the snaps on the car in first. I did mine 6 inches apart on the sides, 5 inches in the front and back.

Then on the material, I started from the middle of the front, worked out to the sides installing the snaps. Once the front was done, worked from side to side like lacing a shoe. You want to stretch the material a bit, mark where the snap goes, put it in, and snap it down. Go to the other side, stretch, mark, install, snap it. Do it that way and it will be nice and tight by the time you are done. Mine was drum-tight, but has since loosened up to be just right.

Also, before you start on the material, it's good to fold over the edges and inch or two and glue with contact cement. Then you dont have a raggity edge or have to sew it. Also doubles up the area where you are putting the snaps.
 
I got tired of watching this body continue to rust just sitting in my garage. Hate to paint over the "patina" (if flaking paint and bondo is patina) but too many places are really thin with rust.

So I wire-wheeled the rusty areas, sanded a bit and sprayed on a few coats of rust converter primer. Then hit it with a couple coats of rust-o flat black. The final coat was this new rust-o "ultra flat" I saw at HD. Man they aren't kidding! Just as flat as primer, but hopefully won't chalk up like primer or rub off when you touch it.

I know the paint guys are groaning with my rust-o, but body is way too rough to justify the $$ for a good paint job.
 

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Your car looks GREAT!!!! Good job!!


Paint is our friend...even if it is Rustoleum!!!

I too loved the PATINA look but didn't like getting rust stains on my hands and clothes (neither do passengers!)..I opted for color on mine but like you said....we hate to see all our work and efforts rust away!!!

Between the paint for the body and rattle cans for smaller pieces... think I only have about $50.00 into all the paint on my car!
 

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Thanks!

Still have to do the inside which is just as rusty as the outside. And the frame still hasn't been painted...:(

I think I'll wait till winter, pull it all apart to do the inside and the frame though. Fall cruising weather is right around the corner!!:D:D
 

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