Spoons Chevy rat
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Old Iron
Well-known member
Open a PhotoBucket account. Upload all your pics there then copy and paste the URL here.
I don't do it this way but, have heard others talk about the process.
Using a PC is way easier.
I don't do it this way but, have heard others talk about the process.
Using a PC is way easier.
That's an easy way to get pics on. If not photo bucket, there are a number of other online photo sharing sites. I personally have a google blogger blog site that I post my pics to first and then copy the urls. Any one of the sites should be equally easy.
As for bagging the front, if you run it static to start, you just need the bags, fab some brackets for them, a set of shocks to setup outboard, and fab brackets for the shocks. If you go with cheaper bags, you can get a set for around $100 US. If you get high end bags, you'll spend about $200 US. A few fittings are also needed but they are cheap. If you are interested, there are a batch of pics in my build thread (signature line) and I would be happy to answer questions about how I did mine and about variations that I came across during my research while prepping to set mine up.
Look on ebay for drop spindles. I would guess that some of the places on there will ship through ebay international shipping.
A totally free way to get about an inch lower is to do a ball joint flip. To do it, you literally just unbolt the ball joints from the upper and lower bottoms of the control arms and re-bolt them on the tops. For the lower one, you have to pull the strut rod nut plate off and flip it over as well so that the long arm of the lower ball joint can sit under the bar between the 2 nuts. If you want more info, if can take some pics or try to find a link to the write-up that found on doing it.
One more thing to throw out there is that a Ford 8.8 inch rear end out of an Explorer will bolt straight in. It will drop right onto the pins in the springs! I couldn't believe it before I saw it for myself. You have to pound the crap out of the corner of the gas tank for clearance but otherwise it's a simple drop in. You can get disks brakes and trakloc and a much stronger axle all in one go.
Finally, the forum www.toyotaminis.com has a lot of good info on these trucks.
Sorry for such a long winded post!!!!!
As for bagging the front, if you run it static to start, you just need the bags, fab some brackets for them, a set of shocks to setup outboard, and fab brackets for the shocks. If you go with cheaper bags, you can get a set for around $100 US. If you get high end bags, you'll spend about $200 US. A few fittings are also needed but they are cheap. If you are interested, there are a batch of pics in my build thread (signature line) and I would be happy to answer questions about how I did mine and about variations that I came across during my research while prepping to set mine up.
Look on ebay for drop spindles. I would guess that some of the places on there will ship through ebay international shipping.
A totally free way to get about an inch lower is to do a ball joint flip. To do it, you literally just unbolt the ball joints from the upper and lower bottoms of the control arms and re-bolt them on the tops. For the lower one, you have to pull the strut rod nut plate off and flip it over as well so that the long arm of the lower ball joint can sit under the bar between the 2 nuts. If you want more info, if can take some pics or try to find a link to the write-up that found on doing it.
One more thing to throw out there is that a Ford 8.8 inch rear end out of an Explorer will bolt straight in. It will drop right onto the pins in the springs! I couldn't believe it before I saw it for myself. You have to pound the crap out of the corner of the gas tank for clearance but otherwise it's a simple drop in. You can get disks brakes and trakloc and a much stronger axle all in one go.
Finally, the forum www.toyotaminis.com has a lot of good info on these trucks.
Sorry for such a long winded post!!!!!
Skip
Well-known member
I remember Toyota Hiluxs from the '60s. Of course, I worked in the first all foreign wrecking yard in So. Cal.
Bamamav
Well-known member
Toyota truck frames make a good starting point, they are fully boxed from the factory. They are front steer though, so running one fender less tends to look funny. That was one of the reasons I sold the 36 Dodge I had that was on a Toyota pickup frame, I wanted to run fender less and never could come up with a suitable rack and pinion to swap into it. That, and I happened upon my Lincoln coupe. I even thought about reversing the spindles side for side, but was afraid it would screw the Ackerman up too much.
Spoon, are you going to be able to hide the steering box under the fender?
Spoon, are you going to be able to hide the steering box under the fender?
Bamavav, yep the box will be under the fender.
Got front guard position finalised yesterday, made some mounting brackets and finalised engine position.
I sat the cab on the chassis for the first time today, starting to look like something now.
Got front guard position finalised yesterday, made some mounting brackets and finalised engine position.
I sat the cab on the chassis for the first time today, starting to look like something now.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Truck's looking great Spoon!!!
zzrodder
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
Looking pretty cool. I remember they called the Toyota pickup Hilux here in Canada into the 70's.
Educate us a bit on the Holden 5.0 engine, never seen one here - at first I thought it looked like Ford 5.0 ?? [S
Educate us a bit on the Holden 5.0 engine, never seen one here - at first I thought it looked like Ford 5.0 ?? [S
ZZRodder, the Holden 5.0 engine was first released in Australia in 1969 as a carbureted engine but in 1989 they were blessed with a better flowing head package and fuel injection.
There a 3" stroke 4" bore engine basically configured the same as your ford and chev pushrod V8's over head valve.
Cast block, cast heads.
The EfI intake manifold is a bit restrictive if your chasing big rpm but will still happily see more than enough horsepower for my rod.
There a 3" stroke 4" bore engine basically configured the same as your ford and chev pushrod V8's over head valve.
Cast block, cast heads.
The EfI intake manifold is a bit restrictive if your chasing big rpm but will still happily see more than enough horsepower for my rod.
