Cutting and welding Ford I-beam axle

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rehoward

Active member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
25
Anyone know if the Ford split I-beam front axle on light duty F-series trucks can safely be cut to shorten and the re-welded. I think this is just a heavy steel forging without any specific heat treat but I am not sure. Thanks.

Randy
 
Yes, they are forged, the way to adjust the camber on them is to actually bend them on the small end. Front end shops that have the right equipment do it cold but I have simply heated them red with a torch and used a jack to bend it. Also have welded bag mounts to them (see pics). Shortening them should be no problem if done right - don't just do a square cut butt weld - a deeply angled weld joint would spread out the stress and be stronger. Wish I'd shortened the axles on my build, it is wiiiiiide compared to older vehicles.
 

Attachments

  • april 30 06 018.jpg
    april 30 06 018.jpg
    90.5 KB · Views: 111
  • may 6 06 004.jpg
    may 6 06 004.jpg
    145.7 KB · Views: 108
Looks mighty fine ZZrodder. I think shortening the axles and drilling some lightening holes in the web might do the trick for a rod. And maybe a 9" Bronco rear end. Thanks for the input.

Randy
 
So you are using air bags to replace the coil springs? Does that work well? Seems like they would provide very limited travel. Any thoughts on that?

Randy
 
So you are using air bags to replace the coil springs? Does that work well? Seems like they would provide very limited travel. Any thoughts on that?

Randy

It rides great. On my setup, I mounted the bags inboard of the original spring mount position so even though I used single convoluted bags, I still get 6" of travel. Bags with greater extended length would give more travel but with the Twin I Beam you want ride height to be in the "sweet spot" where the tires are not tilted in or out causing excessive wear. Since air bags have a progressive rate, the more they are compressed, the stiffer they become. Unless you're off roading, you just won't need more travel.
In the pics it is aired down, ride height is 3" higher but for pics, it looks kooler down low - you can see how much the tires tilt in when lowered.
 

Attachments

  • mar 29 09 005 b.jpg
    mar 29 09 005 b.jpg
    82.3 KB · Views: 46
  • mar 29 09 017 b.jpg
    mar 29 09 017 b.jpg
    85.5 KB · Views: 47
ZZrodder,

Can you provide any more pics of your twin beam build? Is that an F-100 chassis that you started with? You can pm me here if that works better, just take out the stars. Thanks!

bas*sic@*isp.com
 
ZZrodder,

Can you provide any more pics of your twin beam build? Is that an F-100 chassis that you started with? You can pm me here if that works better, just take out the stars. Thanks!

bas*sic@*isp.com

Here's a few more for ya. It started out as a 78 F150 chassis though I did a ton of mods to it. Cut it at the hump under the cab to straighten the rails, stepped the rear about 6", trimmed and added more upward curve to the front frame horns. Tried to re-use some stock pieces like the gas tank, front leaf mounts for the lower 4 link arms etc. Moved the front radius rod mounts to the side using ones off an E150 van. The steering box came off a 74 Chevy C10, I reversed the pitman arm and modified the end of the F150 tie rod to line up right. After all that I boxed the side rails and added the X member. Lotsa work and it weighs a ton but it is strong as a battleship, been cruising it for 6 years with no issues.
 

Attachments

  • dec 17 05 019 a.jpg
    dec 17 05 019 a.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 67
  • dec 17 05 011.jpg
    dec 17 05 011.jpg
    148.9 KB · Views: 66
  • may 6 06 007 a.jpg
    may 6 06 007 a.jpg
    73.5 KB · Views: 61
  • april 30 06 017zz.jpg
    april 30 06 017zz.jpg
    56.8 KB · Views: 64
  • may 6 06 013z.jpg
    may 6 06 013z.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 55
  • may 6 06 0052.jpg
    may 6 06 0052.jpg
    53.1 KB · Views: 54
ZZrodder,

That is one bitchin' build. Really exceptional work. Thanks for the additional pics. What body did you drop on it?

Randy
 
Wow! That is some build! What is the cab, fenders, hood etc from?

The body is all one-off scratch built from 18ga. steel. I went through 8 - 4'x10' sheets making the body. I later tweaked the shape of the front edge of the front and rear edge of the rear fenders, you can see the differences from the painted and bare steel pics.
I've never done a full build thread, didn't want to ruffle any feathers with another shiny rod...
 

Attachments

  • jan 15 06 007.jpg
    jan 15 06 007.jpg
    134.3 KB · Views: 34
  • mar 25 06 012 a.jpg
    mar 25 06 012 a.jpg
    59.2 KB · Views: 40
  • mar 25 06 031 a.jpg
    mar 25 06 031 a.jpg
    62.2 KB · Views: 36
  • mar 25 06 013.jpg
    mar 25 06 013.jpg
    149 KB · Views: 31
  • mar 29 09 010 a.jpg
    mar 29 09 010 a.jpg
    84 KB · Views: 33
  • may 24 09 005z.jpg
    may 24 09 005z.jpg
    116.6 KB · Views: 35
ZZrodder,

You have set the bar so high with your rod that anything I have been thinking of seems like wasted effort. That is one impressive display of craftsmanship. Wow.

How did you create the grill shell and fenders. Planishing hammer?

Randy
 
I've never done a full build thread, didn't want to ruffle any feathers with another shiny rod...

I think everyone would LOVE to see that. I don't think it matters if its shiny or not, the main thing with this site is that most build whatever they have themselves.

Now if it was a "chainer" car where all you did was drop off the check and pick out the easter egg purple...may be a different story!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top