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This is what I had in mind for gussets and access. Bolt center is 2 inches from top of link mount. Other bolt is 2 inches from bottom. I should he able to get a 1-1/2 open end wrench on the nuts just fine and do all of the tightening with a big asses Rachel from the outside.
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I'm thinking that 5-10 years down the road, if those boles ever need to come out, you (or someone else) is not going to be happy about not being able to put a socket on those nuts, or be able to drive the bolts out after one might have gotten the nuts off.

I try to build stuff so one day when someone has to fix it, I didn't create a problem for the person.

I don't see a problem with the brackets or with the gussets you are planning, it just not having access to put a socket on the nuts, or the ability to drive the bolts out once the nuts are removed.
 
I'm thinking that 5-10 years down the road, if those boles ever need to come out, you (or someone else) is not going to be happy about not being able to put a socket on those nuts, or be able to drive the bolts out after one might have gotten the nuts off.

I try to build stuff so one day when someone has to fix it, I didn't create a problem for the person.

I don't see a problem with the brackets or with the gussets you are planning, it just not having access to put a socket on the nuts, or the ability to drive the bolts out once the nuts are removed.
Yeah, I never considered having to drive the bolts out.

I hope I can get them out from the outside. Even if I had a hole in the frame, I think I would have to pull the engine to have hammer room.
 
The next time I go to dad's house, I'm going to see if the white speedometer housing can be flipped upside down. I had a revelation that the cluster might look better molded into the bottom of the dash (in the center) than sitting on top like a COE.

White part attaches with 4 screws on front the best i can tell.
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Not this exactly, but it has the roll at the top of the dash and a big gauge panel under the roll.
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