Raising rear fender on 48 Anglia

[1 slikwilly]

I need to raise the rear fender radius on a 48 Anglia Thames, up about 2" gain some tire clearance.. I havn't quite decided what the best method would be,,
I thought about cutting the panel out square and moving it up that way,, OR cutting it at 2" following the radius of the flair, and rewelding at the curviture of the fender flair, and also cutting the flair up about 3 or 4" from the bottom and fabbing a new piece for the infill, insted of fabbing a whole ne bottom piece,,

any suggestions ( lines or rather hard to see )
actually the cuts would not follow the flair at the sides ,, but be straight up

 

[King Herald]

I'd cut it on the line you've marked, as it leaves some steel around the fender to realign things. Clamp it where you want it, then mark and trim the body and cut it so you can butt weld it in place. Or us a 'joggler' to make an overlap step.

It is almost guaranteed the contours will be a little different in the new position so it won't sit flat. Leaving the 'skirt' makes it easier.

I'm not a bodyman, just learned a little building my steel '34 Morris.

 

[Sam_Fear]

I'd probably go with the 2" curve and the splitting the bottom part. You may end up cutting off the bottom 4" too so that you can re-align them slightly. You'll have to see what it looks like when you get there.

 

[jfg455]

I would cut it out as a square above the arch and wider than the arch. you will move most of it straight up and weld it back in after removing the 2" at the top. before welding it in you will need to take the lower sections of the fender off (say about the lower 4" or so) where the fender radius is the straightest. these 2 pieces will go back on where they were origanally but will be moved outwards from the wheel arch to line up with how the fender now comes down. Make sense? the farther up the fender moves the wider it gets at the bottom. The fill in the 2 openings in the fender. This way it will look factory (lines will be all straight) and unless you park it next to a stocker noone will know it is raised. [

 

[1 slikwilly]

This is what I had in mind,, but definately open to suggestions,
I marked where the cuts would be (dotted lines) then cut the excess off at the curvature where it comes off the body, and raise it up and weld it back ,, that would raise it up to where the curve that follows the tire would be at the same level as the tire tread creating enough room for travel of the tire with out having to widen the fender.

clear as mud huh? whatta ya think?

 

[sneakysnake]

If you go with the curve cut, cut the part closest to the lip first then move it up and "remark". If you cut the curve 2" piece out your gonna find that the curve will be wrong because the upper line is a bigger circle and top will touch and the side will have a big pie gap.The square cut makes a bigger scar but its just a streight up move and fix bottoms.

 

[sneakysnake]

Not the best example but maybe you can see what I refering to on the the top will touch before the sides.

 

[1 slikwilly]

Thanks SS I do see what you mean,, also it would probably be better to cut up from the top of the flair on the fender about a inch, Right?

 

[sneakysnake]

Yes, give your self some working room but the scar and distortion will hide better if its not to far out in the open flat metal. I would make me three vertical marks using a level to give you a reference point as you slide the fender up it will keep it straight.Cut the fender loose and move into the new location and clamp, if all looks good mark and cut out the piece thats under the fender. Use panel clamps to hold everything in place and tack weld up slowly to not cause distortion.Then add a filler where you left the bottom of the fender to meet the raised section.I would try to keep the cut low in the fender but the curve of the body may prevent it from being as low as I drew it but the lower the better to hide the scar and not cause a stairstep in the fender opening.

 

[1 slikwilly]

Thanks again SS.. I think what you have stated is what I will do,, and actually the panel is very flat without any curvature, should line up really well, a friend came by today that is well versed in cutting up stuff and he thought the same way you are suggesting would be the best way
I have chopped a couple of tops and done alot of fab work,, but its always a good idea to get more suggestions,,

I don't know how soon I will be able to get started on this,, have another project I need to get finished first,, But I will take progressive pictures and post them,,

Here is a 56 Metro we streched 22" and chopped the top 3 1/2 in front and 4 in back
Thanks again..

 

[sneakysnake]

You get a chance look at the one in Hotwrench's pics of OKC show.Alot of motor in a little car.LOL

http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19242

 

[1 slikwilly]

Some nice rods there,, Thanks SS, that little metro is stuffed for sure,, needs a periscope to drive it [dr