1948 Chevrolet A/D 3600 5 Window rat rod build

[AnvilBlockForge]

Hi, Christian Bivens here. I'm 17 and about to graduate and decided to take on a rat rod project. I plan to go into metal working and machining, so I'm hoping this will be great practice. So I've been reading on this forum about building a rat rod for a month or two now and finally invested in one.
I found a 1948 Chevrolet A/D 3600 5 window on craigslist, no picture, but decided to call anyways and liked what I heard. Drove 2 hrs to look at it and left. I made a guy an offer that night of 150$, figured I start by low balling him. He took it! So for another 100 I had it delivered and now here we are. The only reason I got it was for the fenders, frame, and the fact it has a bill of sale and registration. From what I've read, legalization for a rat rod can be rather difficult I started building a shop specifically for it as you can see, but got rained out







The Plan, let me know what ya'll think. Constructive criticism is appreciated as long as it's helpful

The Plan:
The chassis is complete in the rear, with 8 lug wheels. Looks salvageable

Complete bottom of the cab is gone due to rust
My solution so far is to cut 8 inches out of the bottom of the cab doors and all
This solves a couple things
Brings the cab down so I can mount buckets and give it a chopped look
Brings me to clean metal to refab a floor
Is this a good idea? Seems to me the quickest and cheapest fix

Next is the front suspension. All that's left is the steering and 2 leaf springs
I don't even know where to start here, so help and ideas for a front end is much appreciated

As for a motor I plan to drop a 350 in it, with a manual tranny

Interior will be bare minimum

And paint scheme is chevy orange and flat black
That's my plan so far

When the weather gets nice again I shall start disassembly. Some of the bolts are coming out, but a lot will need to be cut.
After I disassemble next is rust removal and prime. Thats what I have planned this month

Let me know what you guys think and start throwin ideas!

 

[skull]

nice

looks like good starting point.

have you thought about I F S of some kind?

l used 197O'S style sub-frame off a nova/camaro but any F body of that era will work.
a swap like that will give you a good ride, power steering, disc brakes, motor & tranny mounts, easier to install headers and ease of getting replacement parts. make sure to get the portioning valve that matches for the brakes. disc/drum take different ones than drum/drum. if running power brakes make sure the master cylinder is the correct one, some power one don't work on manual systems and vice-versa.

you might want to swap in a newer rear-end , better gears, newer brakes, ease of cool wheels and matching wheel bolt patterns can be drilled on almost any rear-end. my Ford 9 inch has a chevy bolt pattern.

Later

 

[Old Iron]

The rearend in the 3/4 pickups are really low geared so, you might want to change it

 

[AnvilBlockForge]

The rearend in the 3/4 pickups are really low geared so, you might want to change it

I plan to use the vehicle not only for fun, but to tow also. I have a boat, but no truck, so I figured two birds/ one stone. So a lot of torque is ok

 

[blacksheep]

I plan to use the vehicle not only for fun, but to tow also. I have a boat, but no truck, so I figured two birds/ one stone. So a lot of torque is ok

Torque is ok, but a lot of those older rear ends would only allow the truck to go 55 tops, then it was wound up. Just something to consider.

 

[AnvilBlockForge]

I'm starting to go towards a parts car idea. My father said the best thing to do would be find an old big body GM like a caddy with a 500 big block in it for cheap, a junker. Use the rear end and front end that way I have brakes and steering covered and then use the motor to cut cost. He brought up a good point, if I start buying parts individually it can get expensive very quickly. SO I think buying a junker large GM car and swapping everything out is the way to go. Then again, if I did that, easiest Thing would prolly keep the chassis and just swap the cab and fenders on it. Idk, this is all new to me, but I'm excited to start! [dr

Just gotta wait for this dang rain to stop

 

[05snopro440]

The problem with that idea is that most of the old big cars you're thinking of had a wide track width, so the wheels will be right at the outside of the fenders or even outside of them. A malibu/nova/s-10 front end is narrower and will fit within the fenders better.

Check out my build. I used an S-10 frame and a lot of parts (steering column, seat, pedals, booster, etc.) with a 455 Buick engine and the Buick TH400.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

440 is right ,, need to use an s-10 or grand-prix ,monte carlo , cars like that ,, big cars are wider I had the same problem with a 79 Camaro front end I put it under a 40 coupe half the tire stuck out from under the fender. It didnt look to spiffy come to think about it Im not sure about how wide the grand and the monte cars are . they are like a mid size car ,, I would think they would be narrower ???

 

[AnvilBlockForge]

440 is right ,, need to use an s-10 or grand-prix ,monte carlo , cars like that ,, big cars are wider I had the same problem with a 79 Camaro front end I put it under a 40 coupe half the tire stuck out from under the fender. It didnt look to spiffy come to think about it Im not sure about how wide the grand and the monte cars are . they are like a mid size car ,, I would think they would be narrower ???

Ya'll bring up a good point, how close is the S-10 to this frame? Will a front end off one fit? Guess I gotta take some measurements and take a trip to the pick n pull.
What are some things to consider when doing a front end swap? What to measure and what not

 

[Yankee Transplant]

measure inside rotor to rotor.. then measure outside to outside of the frame about where the cab bolts down . mine was cut off right where the frame dropped down , then welded to my frame. that way the frame will kinda be strait or flat , it was not an exact fit . Have to do some fab work there . but like they said you will have a smooth ride, power steering , brakes , already motor mounts , just make sure if you get one , (like skull said) get all the brake stuff with it .. Ive got that problem now miss-match brake system . (they dont work right if you miss-match it with different sizes )

 

[AnvilBlockForge]

measure inside rotor to rotor.. then measure outside to outside of the frame about where the cab bolts down . mine was cut off right where the frame dropped down , then welded to my frame. that way the frame will kinda be strait or flat , it was not an exact fit . Have to do some fab work there . but like they said you will have a smooth ride, power steering , brakes , already motor mounts , just make sure if you get one , (like skull said) get all the brake stuff with it .. Ive got that problem now miss-match brake system . (they dont work right if you miss-match it with different sizes )

Yea, what I'm thinking is I'll just find an S-10 frame and transfer the body over, seems a lot simpler. But will an S-10 Frame handle a big block? Or will I have to upgrade the suspension?

 

[Yankee Transplant]

I dont know .. they are drag trucks all over with the v8 in them ,, I havnt heard anyone say they had to change springs ..

 

[AnvilBlockForge]

Then that's what I'll do. Time to track down a S-10 frame
Cleaned out the cab today, started repairing the floor. I'm trying to refrain from chopping the cab up and the rust wasn't as bad as I thought.

 

[skull]

cl

look on craigslist, lots of S1O's and other stuff that can work, some times fairly cheap or trade.

also, run a add on CL telling people what you are doing and some may help.

l got some major help help on Jimmy's truck this way.

Later

 

[05snopro440]

Ya'll bring up a good point, how close is the S-10 to this frame? Will a front end off one fit? Guess I gotta take some measurements and take a trip to the pick n pull.
What are some things to consider when doing a front end swap? What to measure and what not

Yea, what I'm thinking is I'll just find an S-10 frame and transfer the body over, seems a lot simpler. But will an S-10 Frame handle a big block? Or will I have to upgrade the suspension?

Then that's what I'll do. Time to track down a S-10 frame
Cleaned out the cab today, started repairing the floor. I'm trying to refrain from chopping the cab up and the rust wasn't as bad as I thought.

I don't see the logic in your thoughts about just using an S-10 clip. These cabs are extremely easy to mount on an S-10 frame, if you can do a little fabrication. The rear cab mounts work like they're made for it. The S-10 frame is well engineered with good front and rear suspension, that is designed to work together. If you can, use an entire S-10 frame. That way you have all the brake lines, fuel lines, front and rear brakes, etc. On mine I used the S-10 seat, column, emergency brake cables and pedal, brake booster and pedal, gas pedal, column/booster brace, and probably some other things I forgot. It handles, drives, and stops great.

Yes, the S-10 frame will easily handle a big block. My dad's '52 Chev pickup is on an S-10 frame with a 454. It has almost 20,000 KM's with the S-10 rear end and it works great. The S-10 frames were very well built, and the 10-bolt differentials can stand up to a lot of power and abuse. Many people assume otherwise, just because it's a "light-duty" pickup, but they can easily handle the big block. I've got a 455 Buick in mine.

Your best bet is to find a complete S-10 that you can rob all the needed parts from, it makes for an easy and cheap swap.

 

[1952B3b23]

I totally agree with snopro, thats going to be your best bet with the complete S-10 swap. Also its been done plenty of times now so theres many people that you can consult for help along the way. Good luck.

-Chris

 

[skull]

instructions

step by step[

http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?16296-1948-Chevy-5-window-on-an-s10-frame-(step-by-step)

the stove bolt web site can help.

http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=135755&page=all

E-Z Chassis Swaps may help.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/E-Z-Chassis-Swaps/180243642044366

speedway makes motor mounts that bolt in a V-8.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/Engine-Engine-Mounts-and-Adapters/13.html

home made swap to S1O on AD truck.

http://chevytrucks.org/tech/s10_frame_swap.htm

mongo's garage did one.

http://www.mongosgarage.com/tech/s10/frameswap/swapinfo.htm

this should get ya started[P

Later

 

[05snopro440]

speedway makes motor mounts that bolt in a V-8.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/Engine-Engine-Mounts-and-Adapters/13.html

Those are wrong, unless you're installing a SBC in an actual S-10. The engine needs to be relocated when you're using an older cab like this, so the S-10 swap mounts don't work. EZ Chassis swaps sells some, or you can make your own with 4.3 engine mounts (the same as for any SBC) and just move them where you need to.

 

[AnvilBlockForge]

I don't see the logic in your thoughts about just using an S-10 clip.
/
If you can, use an entire S-10 frame. That way you have all the brake lines, fuel lines, front and rear brakes, etc. On mine I used the S-10 seat, column, emergency brake cables and pedal, brake booster and pedal, gas pedal, column/booster brace, and probably some other things I forgot. It handles, drives, and stops great.
Your best bet is to find a complete S-10 that you can rob all the needed parts from, it makes for an easy and cheap swap.

S-10 clip?
Only thing I planned to use was pretty much what you listed. That's my idea, should keep things pretty straight forward

 

[Country Misfit]

That Killbillet link,Skull posted is great,should ans.alot of ?"s you may have.Im using a s-10 frame on my 49 Dodge.I hope to have some time to work on it this week-n.