1948 Dodge Pilothouse Soon CHOPED AND DROPED.. Any suggestions??

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just put the axles on the top side of the frme?

Pretty much. Just seems like with big equipment like that, you'd have plenty of clearance room under the axles. A few S10 baggers do it that way. Striaght axle front would be easier to deal with than IFS too...
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It's not going to be easy to make it look nice without the fenders. The front of the cab is a pretty ugly shape and the hinge face of the doors is exposed.

Maybe if you cut the fender flush with the firewall and just mounted the rear most section it could be cleaned up and made to look nice?

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Good to see another Pilothouse on here, my build is here - http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12239 - Hopefully it can help you with yours, although I think they are going in very different directions, mine is pretty mild. :D
 
thats a pretty wild frame there!... yeah i cant deiced what im going to with the bump out... but cuting the rear part of the fenders and filling in the front might not be a bad idea im not sure yet ive yet to dig into it that far... got it running today and drove it around the block but died halfway around... its like spitting out gas at the rod that goes threw the body of the carb that the butterfly sits on.
 
think weve deiced to turn the way of the build now... choped top still be just droping it and tucking the tires up under the fenders as far as they can go...just get it where the foot steps are almost on the ground..... got the carb rebuilt kit gaskets, inlet needle, plunger, etc, the truck runs great now other than needing some new plug wires and its got like a dead spot when you nail the gas it just like falls on its face.

What could that be....
 
maby its running to rich which could make the plugs faul and would make it not run how long can you keep it at idle without it dieing? check the jets and plugs is all i know of.

hope this helps and im happy your keeping the fenders and dumping it its gunna look bada**
 
well i can keep it running till the tank runs dry... idk, well thanks i think its going to look perdy bad.
 
"nail the gas and it falls on it's face..."

First thing that comes to mind is the accelerator pump...

I also like this idea MUCH better... That will be a AWESOME looking truck!
 
There should be a accelerator pump in the carburetor...

Or, possibly a major vaccum leak? Have you checked all vaccum lines/ ports?
 
Acc. pump, squirter. With the car not running and looking down the carb push the accelerator down and see if any gas is squirted into the engine. If not you have a problem there. Good place to start.
 
there is a plunger deal in there i saw when i rebuilt it and it came with a new one and i replaced it....
 
That "plunger deal" is the accelerator pump... It could possibly be out of adjustment... I'm not familiar with that particular carb, or I'd be more help. How do your plugs look? That would be a good indicator on if it's running rich/ lean...

Also, check for vaccum leaks. A good way to do that is to use a propane torch (not lit) and move it around the carb/ intake. If the RPM's increase, it's pulling the propane into the intake via the vaccum leak.
 
i will have to look at the plugs... well carb rebuild kit said to set pump at like a 3/8 of an inch height and thats what i did maybe its wrong...
 
i would say it doesnt have any vac leaks because it has the two speed vac operatored rearend and it works still.. but i suppose there could be others
 
Vacuum gauge is a handy tool for working on older motors. Could be a timing problem. Initial timing or the advance may be off.
 

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