soltz
The Rat Captain
Very Nice
Good work [cl[cl
Can't wait to see it going back together [P
Good work [cl[cl
Can't wait to see it going back together [P
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
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Old Iron
Well-known member
That is some clean work.
They are big fans of Z-Bart in Texas. It's real obvious which vehicles were treated with that product.
They are big fans of Z-Bart in Texas. It's real obvious which vehicles were treated with that product.
Skip
Well-known member
Some people are just outrageously productive.
Nice work!
Nice work!
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I wish it looked as good in person as it does in the photo. Already scratched up the trans and engine mounts. Good thing Zero Rust comes in rattle cans, too.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Well so far this week isn't going well.
I put the third member in, but couldn't get the axles in. 31 spline axles, 28 spline side gears. Took it back to the guys that did the rebuild and sold me the axles. They could not have handled it better -took full responsibility even though the invoice was from April. They are replacing the side gears with 31 spline.
Decided to put the clutch in. The hydraulic throw out bearing is too long. Supposed to have .150 -.200" free travel, instead it has .370 interference. We'll see how that works out.
I put the third member in, but couldn't get the axles in. 31 spline axles, 28 spline side gears. Took it back to the guys that did the rebuild and sold me the axles. They could not have handled it better -took full responsibility even though the invoice was from April. They are replacing the side gears with 31 spline.
Decided to put the clutch in. The hydraulic throw out bearing is too long. Supposed to have .150 -.200" free travel, instead it has .370 interference. We'll see how that works out.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
I hate it when stuff happens like that. Just makes you wanna call it a day and go play with the grandkids or something.
Hang in there.
Hang in there.
sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
seems that stuff is inevitable
When you are making progress....something always seems to put the brakes on just when you can see some light at the end of the tunnel....I'm sure you will have that sorted out in no time.... keep up the good work...[cl
When you are making progress....something always seems to put the brakes on just when you can see some light at the end of the tunnel....I'm sure you will have that sorted out in no time.... keep up the good work...[cl
DJ3100
Well-known member
So, after sleeping on the clutch problem and doing a little more research. I think the problem is the mismatched parts. Ford World Class T5, Quick Time bell housing, 2013 Camaro pressure plate. I bet the GM pressure plate is about 1/2" thicker than a Ford.
I'll get with the manufacturer today and see what they say. One option is to just machine the inner bearing tube 1/2" shorter and move on.
I'll get with the manufacturer today and see what they say. One option is to just machine the inner bearing tube 1/2" shorter and move on.
Is the bell housing made for a ford trans? Quick time does make one for a chevy motor to a ford trans. Also did it come with the plate that mounts to the block and covers behind the flywheel? If that isn't in there would be about .120" less space. Try a 2003 pressure plate instead of the 2013 unit. The 2013 camaro would have had a tr6060 6spd as apposed to the T56 in the 2003 camaro. I havn't had one side by side to compare but that could be the difference. I have a 2002 C5 vette unit here I could measure if you need specs. That should be interchangeable with the 03 camaro unit.
Another option is to make a spacer plate between the trans and bellhousing that would be about .550" thick
DJ3100
Well-known member
The T5 with the correct Quick Time bell housing has been on the engine without the clutch. The clutch has been on the flywheel. The clutch disc matches the GM disc exactly except for the spline count - it is 10 spline to match the Ford input shaft.
The only problem I was having is that I bought the hydraulic throw- out bearing for the World Class T5 . It was .348" too long. If I had bought the GM throw out bearing it would have been .5" shorter and would have worked (I know that now, but not when I bought it).
I machined the extra length off the bearing and all the measurements seem to be correct. I'm ready to put it together today or tomorrow.
But instead of taking an couple hours to get the tranny installed - it will be most of 3 days.
The only problem I was having is that I bought the hydraulic throw- out bearing for the World Class T5 . It was .348" too long. If I had bought the GM throw out bearing it would have been .5" shorter and would have worked (I know that now, but not when I bought it).
I machined the extra length off the bearing and all the measurements seem to be correct. I'm ready to put it together today or tomorrow.
But instead of taking an couple hours to get the tranny installed - it will be most of 3 days.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Transmission installed
Got the transmission in bolted and torqued. There is the required throw out bearing clearance of .150 -.200. All is good? It would be nice to be able to check it.
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Doug came by and helped me lift and wiggle it into place. Made it much easier.
Got the transmission in bolted and torqued. There is the required throw out bearing clearance of .150 -.200. All is good? It would be nice to be able to check it.
Doug came by and helped me lift and wiggle it into place. Made it much easier.
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DJ3100
Well-known member
Internal frame coating
This stuff showed up yesterday.
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The nozzle sprays 360 degrees with a lot of pressure. The stuff is very thin and comes out all the holes. It would be a good idea to do it before painting the frame.
[/URL][/IMG]
It sprays out all the openings, doesn't wipe off, it penetrates, which is what it's supposed to do.
[/URL][/IMG]
Can't really tell if all of the frame got coated, but it came out of every hole. Heck I don't even know if it does anything to protect the metal it coats.
[/URL][/IMG]
Didn't really slow me up too much, 8literbeater it only took about 20 minutes. Earthman, I'm not sure if I'll sleep better - but I have done what I can do.
This stuff showed up yesterday.
The nozzle sprays 360 degrees with a lot of pressure. The stuff is very thin and comes out all the holes. It would be a good idea to do it before painting the frame.
It sprays out all the openings, doesn't wipe off, it penetrates, which is what it's supposed to do.
Can't really tell if all of the frame got coated, but it came out of every hole. Heck I don't even know if it does anything to protect the metal it coats.
Didn't really slow me up too much, 8literbeater it only took about 20 minutes. Earthman, I'm not sure if I'll sleep better - but I have done what I can do.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Update.
Didn't get the third member back yet. The guy was sick, they're backed up, etc., etc. Monday?
I did get the water pump changed out. Bought gaskets for the intake; will probably get it on today.
Didn't get the third member back yet. The guy was sick, they're backed up, etc., etc. Monday?
I did get the water pump changed out. Bought gaskets for the intake; will probably get it on today.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks for the info. I didn't try anything other than a dry rag. This product says it is a phenolic resin with zinc (don't know if that's a wax or not). The paint was still pretty fresh and I didn't want to risk wiping the paint off.
I got to spend a couple hours on it today. Got the intake cleaned up and installed.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Sounds like they need to make this product in black so it doesn't mess with the painted frames.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Yes that would probably be a good idea. A lot of people would be upset over that.
For me, I don't really care. It is OK like it is. When I get the frame it all assembled I'll probably go over it with a rattle can and hit anything that isn't black. My main concern is to get it all covered and stop the rust.
Bamamav
Well-known member
Or maybe you need to use it before you paint the frame?[S
Can it be painted over?[S
I just used POR15 over my rusty stuff. It's on the bottom anyway, and the car sits too low to see under it without a mirror, so nobody will see it anyway.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Reassembly
The photos I took don't cover much, but here's what I have.
Changed out the water pump for the new one and got the intake on.
[/URL][/IMG]
Installed the headers (had them ceramic coated) and exhaust.
[/URL][/IMG]
Got the front brakes on. Took me forever to decide how to fun the flex lines, but found a good solution.
[/URL][/IMG]
Decided to run the fuel line through the frame. Had just enough 3/8 steel line left from previous projects. Started with a hole saw and a couple 1.5" holes.
[/URL][/IMG]
Bent an offset in the front of the line. Found some 3/8 I.D. AC hose, cut it into 3" pieces and duct taped them on every 12". The hose should protect the steel line from rubbing and keep it from rattling. The duct tape was just to keep them in place during installation.
[/URL][/IMG]
On the back hole a little blacksmith shaping helped feed the thick AC hose into the frame.
[/URL][/IMG]
Had to pull it back out and bend the offset in the back.
[/URL][/IMG]
Here's the front.
[/URL][/IMG]
The photos I took don't cover much, but here's what I have.
Changed out the water pump for the new one and got the intake on.
Installed the headers (had them ceramic coated) and exhaust.
Got the front brakes on. Took me forever to decide how to fun the flex lines, but found a good solution.
Decided to run the fuel line through the frame. Had just enough 3/8 steel line left from previous projects. Started with a hole saw and a couple 1.5" holes.
Bent an offset in the front of the line. Found some 3/8 I.D. AC hose, cut it into 3" pieces and duct taped them on every 12". The hose should protect the steel line from rubbing and keep it from rattling. The duct tape was just to keep them in place during installation.
On the back hole a little blacksmith shaping helped feed the thick AC hose into the frame.
Had to pull it back out and bend the offset in the back.
Here's the front.
