International Harvester R-102 bagger

[jmlcolorado]

I have spent last 3 hours studying old builds and looking at his website.
Now I am freaking out... Im not a bodyman, I am not a serious welder, I am just an ambitious dreamer who likes mechanical stuff.

Listen man. Your okay. I've seen hundreds of builds on this site, and yes, many of them are way beyond skilled! I can't count how many times I've gotten discouraged on my build and stepped away from it.
The best thing about this site is the vast differences in skill level. We have full blown professionals that do this for a living, and guys like me that just wish they. Had the skills others do.

Don't beat yourself up on it. I fully expected to take about 1 year to complete mine, and I'm running up on 3 years now.
I really don't have any hard feeling about that because I feel like I am taking the time to learn, in detail, each and every aspect about building a vehicle.
Everyone here is MORE than willing to dish out advice and not dog you unless your close minded and do critical components in an unsafe manor. Even at that, it's not a dog, it's constructive criticism.
Hang in there! It's all about your mind frame. Don't neat yourself up that your not a serious welder. You might not be one today, but in no time flat, you can be with practice.
If your questioning something, step back and research it and make the best decision you can on how to move forward.

I've learned that I HATE body work, since I suck at it, so that's taken me the longest to finish. Since it's taken me forever to complete, along the way I've found some solutions to make it better.
For example, my 'butt crack' roof. I know I can cut it out and patch in a new piece. But I'm leaning towards Eastwoods lead less body solder for most areas.
I've worked with it before, and honestly, it's fun stuff!
In fact, I think applying this on my project will only add to the conversation down the road with folks who are curious about what it is and how it works.

Keep positive about it all, and bite off 1 piece at a time rathar then looking at the entire build in one shot. It will become overwhelming that way.



I am FAR from an expert on anything on my build, but that's what I think is most fun about it. I get to take the time and learn ALL KINDS of new things along the way. Suspension geometry, spring rates, metallurgy, fasteners of all types, cutting glass, this list goes on.
And 90% of the things I've learned! I had no clue about before.
If your not learning something new everyday in life, your doing it wrong

 

[choppinczech]

Don't beat yourself up on it. I fully expected to take about 1 year to complete mine, and I'm running up on 3 years now.
I really don't have any hard feeling about that because I feel like I am taking the time to learn, in detail, each and every aspect about building a vehicle.
Everyone here is MORE than willing to dish out advice and not dog you unless your close minded and do critical components in an unsafe manor. Even at that, it's not a dog, it's constructive criticism.

Well said. I'm expecting mine to take at least 6 years or more. Mainly due to the expense but also the lack of a permanent place to build it.

But I'll tell you, a team of horses, nay sayers, or any set backs are gonna keep me from building and finishing my car.

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

4 months

I told the girlfriend I would only have her garage tied up for a few months... hahaha.
Guess she will be getting a auto car starter for christmas.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I told the girlfriend I would only have her garage tied up for a few months... hahaha.
Guess she will be getting a auto car starter for christmas.

That's funny..... When me and the lady moved into our first house (her out of an apartment) I made it abundantly clear that the garage is my space. She was totally fine with that.
Once we bought our house, it was the same deal. Now were looking at new homes and she keeps popping up 3 car garages. But the two car portion is closest to the house, and the 1 car farthest away (Colorado get service doors from the garage to the interior of the house).
She asked why that was a problem?
I said because I want to put up a wall on the 1 car side so my crap doesn't invade her space. And I want the 1 car door nearest the house so she can go straight inside from the garage and not have to stubble through my mess.

She says, oh you'd get all 3 spaces anyways. The only way I want a space is if it's 4 cars or more [cl
Train em right early on


Edit: and she IS getting a remote starter for Christmas

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

Interview went well...

Had interview at resto shop today. I think it went well despite me not doing pro level work before (mostly due to my crap level equipment and no budget).
He knows I am sincere and want to get my foot in the door so we will see what happens. I made a comment about must be nice working on $75000 cars and he laughed and said 75 was nothing- a guy put 200k into a sunbeam tiger.
B and C's goal is to rock the pro-touring market and they are building a state of the art epoxied floor facility where potential buyers know they are getting quality treatment.
Finishing this 66 mustang convertable might be my first job. Bodywork is done but needs wiring, top and final assembly and full checks. 347 stroker - TCI race tranny.
www.picasaweb.google.com/112945514626879766775/1966FordMustang?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite#

 

[jmlcolorado]

Had interview at resto shop today. I think it went well despite me not doing pro level work before (mostly due to my crap level equipment and no budget).
He knows I am sincere and want to get my foot in the door so we will see what happens. I made a comment about must be nice working on $75000 cars and he laughed and said 75 was nothing- a guy put 200k into a sunbeam tiger.
B and C's goal is to rock the pro-touring market and they are building a state of the art epoxied floor facility where potential buyers know they are getting quality treatment.
Finishing this 66 mustang convertable might be my first job. Bodywork is done but needs wiring, top and final assembly and full checks. 347 stroker - TCI race tranny.
www.picasaweb.google.com/112945514626879766775/1966FordMustang?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite#

That sounds like an AWESOME job to land! I'd be envious!

 

[Old Iron]

Right On. I knew the interview would go well for ya.

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

tiny update

No major progress this week other than cleaning out the garage and rescuing the 66 mustang from 8 inches of snow to get her back inside.
Decided it wasnt worth trashing a just restored car to play around on a rustbucket. I will use my limited space in the winter but keep moving forward.

I did a sanity check on the chevy 350 engine I bought a couple weeks ago.
Bought a new flexplate, starter, solenoid, cables, flexplate and converter bolts, starter bolts, starter shims, plugs, wires, fuel line, tail light housing upper reflectors and new light sockets. Finally got both correct lenses also. The 51 olds futuramic 98 tail light housings are close to perfect curve for the back of the cab. I guess I have a good eye for internet picture comparisons. I have mocked up a tagboard light housing that will be frenched into the cab. Removed the front fender mount directionals and need to rebuild the innards for use as cab lights.
Oh yea... spent hours playing phone tag with Rich (Dirtyrat) and made a tire/rim deal. My bro lives near him and picked them up for me yesterday to save shipping.
Thanks again Rich-
here's the rim link:
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30178
here'r the video link of motor test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kDXBWlDb9o

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

More pics

a little more rat porn for you all

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

A vision or am I nuts?

A vision or am I nuts?
while loading and reviewing pics I had a vision, or err flashback, or umm not sure - maybe too much caffeine but ......

It may make toll collectors a but nervous at the thruway and stop me from doing dukes of hazzard window entries but I kinda like it.

I can still use it on roof and not use cab lights as the original idea was.
The roof seems too busy with cab lights and taillights.

any thoughts?[S

 

[1952B3b23]

Im really liking your IH, looks very good so far.

I just read through your thread and i saw that at one point you talked about welders... i have a Miller 180 Auto Set that i got about a year ago and i love this machine. I got it from Cyberweld.com, heres the link:

http://store.cyberweld.com/millermatic175.html

The had very fast shipping and it was free. The machines rated to weld 5/16" thick mild steel single pass. How heavy of fab are you looking to do?

I also had an Eastwood 135 amp welder that worked okay for less than a year then started to give me troubles. I have an Eastwood plasma cutter that i use and works pretty well. I'd highly recommend Miller buying the cheaper stuff will only be more expensive in the long run. Good luck with everything.

-Chris

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

thanks chris

I also am looking at the millermatic.
That is my next big investment.

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

Oldsmo-Harvester rear light housings finally are made

I have been toying with the Oldsmobile Futuramic tail light chrome for a couple days on and off. I made a pattern (after a few tries) that fit the curved contour decently enough to avoid light leaks if the bezel does not fit perfect against the cab. My gobomatic welder worked good enough to get through the job with only a couple burn holes to need to be final filled. The dual sockets are from Autozone and are 3/4 replacement sockets. When they are cut into the body they will have side tabs welded to the inner box so they can squeeze the roof between the chrome side and inner box. The rear cab is dual walled so the boxes will protrude slightly into interior for now.

I spent a day taking apart the siezed passenger drum assembly. Ended up being the adjuster and both shoes completely rusted to the drum. I popped the shoe mount "arrows" - lol and removed the shoe pivot and outer wheel bearing. I got lucky and after some mild beating it came off. kingpins were pretty dry and it was obvious the truck had no more than 1/4 of its steering travel used recently. Got things cleaned off and repaired 3 grease fittings that were plugged , got grease into her and yahoo- she goes lock to lock and things are tight enough and good shape that for now I will leave them as is. Hoping to reuse drums all the way around, priced flex lines, shoes, master cyl , and rebuilt wheel cyls (all 55 IH repo) at about $170. solid lines will be done obviously after final frame build.

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

lugnuts

tried to install the front wheels today and discovered the lugs on drivers side are frigging left hand threads..... Found some on ebay but they only sell sets of 20. Price was reasonable so I'll have a full set of weld wheel L and R lugs as spares (1/2-20 x 1.37 long shank).

 

[Dirtyrat]

tried to install the front wheels today and discovered the lugs on drivers side are frigging left hand threads..... Found some on ebay but they only sell sets of 20. Price was reasonable so I'll have a full set of weld wheel L and R lugs as spares (1/2-20 x 1.37 long shank).

May be easier to replace the wheel studs to standard RH threads...

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

$30

The lugs are only $30 so theres no way I can change studs out at that price, or as easilly.

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

new welder

I finally broke down and got a like new welder.
A miller 140 auto set with full tank and a bunch of spare tips and wire.
The guy sold his project before he used it much so it looks brand new. I wanted the 180 amp welder but thought the portability of this one would suit me better for future jobs. I paid $700 for everything.

I am looking for a narrowed rearend to use in this project in order to keep rear wheels as narrow as possible. I am trying to keep a prostreet bobber look.

I half a$$ed a pic to show how I want them to look on the truck.

 

[bruno]

Congrats on the miller 140, heck of a buy. Gonna be a wild looking truck with those wheels and tires, hope you find a rear end soon.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Indeed, looking beefy!

 

[54IrrationalHarvester]

header tacked up and build mock up.

I spent half a day digging out the truck again yesterday and decided to sort of do another mock up to see if I like where this is heading. I left one header with tubes full length to see where things will end up. I will be doing a custom frame but the original front kickup I did is about correct.

Question...... how wide are typical main frame rails on a sbc rod? I like the look of the headers outside the frame but think I will need to go narrower than the stock frame to do so. I realize that a narrower frame is less stable and may contribute to torque steer. A narrowed rearend will also require the narrower frame for the 4 link setup to be installed.
Attached is a pic of style frame I likely will do (narrower main rails though).
The header main tubes will be shortened to suit engine position and then 90* turnouts will be added.