Classic_Crime_Inc
Well-known member
I cant wait to see this thing finished, I'd love to own one someday
here is a few picts of another one
here is a few picts of another one
My build - something different
- Thread starter 440shorty
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
Cyanide Jello
Well-known member
holy chop top batman...
This belongs in my Crazy Builds thread too...
I've been a minitrucker for yeeeeeeaaaaaars and seen a lot of done up s10s but never one with THAT much of a chop... Thats straight sadistic... wow... Nice work...
This belongs in my Crazy Builds thread too...
I've been a minitrucker for yeeeeeeaaaaaars and seen a lot of done up s10s but never one with THAT much of a chop... Thats straight sadistic... wow... Nice work...
440shorty
Well-known member
latest pic at new shop
Here's how it sits with my other 455 in it. I'll be playing musical motors (and transmissions) with it and the wagon.
Thanks for posting that chopped S10 rod. It looks like they used a car frame up front, but not at the rear.
I see what they did to the firewall, which gives me some ideas. I may ditch the stock heater case, but I will be mounting the master cylinder in the stock location (I have a stock manual brake setup - no ugly brake booster!).
I'm going for more like the early 70's T-bucket feel, with big 'n' little aluminum slots, a slight rake, and a stand-up grille shell, along with the little bed out back. However, the windshield rake hearkens back to the lakes coupes where they weren't allowed to chop the top or windshield, so they laid the windshield back to cheat the wind.
I may do something different later, but for now, I want to get it rolling and running without extensive body mods.
As for the front suspension, I want to leave it more or less stock, but with a rack and pinion, tall spindles, and tubular upper control arms to correct geometry. I would like for it to handle so that I can at least go slide around the cones with my dad, who autocrosses SCCA. I know it won't fit a class and be competitive, but it would be fun anyway. With tubular control arms it would not be nearly as ugly as the stock stuff is.
On the other hand, the back up plan would be to use a two wheel drive Jeep Cherokee straight front axle setup, although I would still have to move the steering box from in front of the axle to somewhere else. It would have a suicide look, though, with the frame rails ending about where the axle is, or behind it.
Oh, and it will sit a lot lower, but I'll have to have custom springs wound because it weighs so much less than the car the springs came from!
I've had time to toss around a bunch of ideas, so bear with me, and feel free to make suggestions.
440shorty
Here's how it sits with my other 455 in it. I'll be playing musical motors (and transmissions) with it and the wagon.
Thanks for posting that chopped S10 rod. It looks like they used a car frame up front, but not at the rear.
I see what they did to the firewall, which gives me some ideas. I may ditch the stock heater case, but I will be mounting the master cylinder in the stock location (I have a stock manual brake setup - no ugly brake booster!).
I'm going for more like the early 70's T-bucket feel, with big 'n' little aluminum slots, a slight rake, and a stand-up grille shell, along with the little bed out back. However, the windshield rake hearkens back to the lakes coupes where they weren't allowed to chop the top or windshield, so they laid the windshield back to cheat the wind.
I may do something different later, but for now, I want to get it rolling and running without extensive body mods.
As for the front suspension, I want to leave it more or less stock, but with a rack and pinion, tall spindles, and tubular upper control arms to correct geometry. I would like for it to handle so that I can at least go slide around the cones with my dad, who autocrosses SCCA. I know it won't fit a class and be competitive, but it would be fun anyway. With tubular control arms it would not be nearly as ugly as the stock stuff is.
On the other hand, the back up plan would be to use a two wheel drive Jeep Cherokee straight front axle setup, although I would still have to move the steering box from in front of the axle to somewhere else. It would have a suicide look, though, with the frame rails ending about where the axle is, or behind it.
Oh, and it will sit a lot lower, but I'll have to have custom springs wound because it weighs so much less than the car the springs came from!
I've had time to toss around a bunch of ideas, so bear with me, and feel free to make suggestions.
440shorty
Attachments
Bonehead
Skull Master
I agree about loosing the heater. It is funny, but I really like this build. Seeing the rear section and the exposed engine, makes this a pretty cool looking truck. What ever you decide I am sure it will be great.
440shorty
Well-known member
section?
After reading about hoitink's build, I wonder how a section job would change the look of this cab?
440shorty
After reading about hoitink's build, I wonder how a section job would change the look of this cab?
440shorty
440shorty
Well-known member
lower
I was cleaning up shop and decided to take the rear springs out of the rear, since they are too stiff anyway. Here are before and after pics with the rear ride height more like I want it.
I still have to take the front springs out and change the spindles, too. I was thinking of using aftermarket circle track front control arms along with tall spindles to lower the front and get rid of the ugly, clunky stock control arms. I know that most of us prefer a straight front axle, but this time I want to keep it more or less stock, including the IFS, and see how it turns out. It should actually handle pretty good.
I can almost work in the shop now!
440shorty
I was cleaning up shop and decided to take the rear springs out of the rear, since they are too stiff anyway. Here are before and after pics with the rear ride height more like I want it.
I still have to take the front springs out and change the spindles, too. I was thinking of using aftermarket circle track front control arms along with tall spindles to lower the front and get rid of the ugly, clunky stock control arms. I know that most of us prefer a straight front axle, but this time I want to keep it more or less stock, including the IFS, and see how it turns out. It should actually handle pretty good.
I can almost work in the shop now!
440shorty
Attachments
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Shorty,
DUDE, that thing rocks.
DUDE, that thing rocks.
ratty46pickup
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2008
- Messages
- 107
I`ve just sat here and studied this whole build. I really love where this is going so far! You mentioned possibly re-locating the steering? If you meant like behind the crossmember, then you could maybe lose the frame horns from crossmember forward? If this were done, it would make a great difference in the appearance of the front end. If I`m off track here sorry. Just my opinion. Overall, very cool concept, great work, and the true spirit of hotrodding!!!
hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
I've seen some s-10 based rat-rods but NONE that impressed me until yours!
(but my opinion may not be worth much)
keep up the good work and i'm looking for updates on that tubular front suspension
(but my opinion may not be worth much)
keep up the good work and i'm looking for updates on that tubular front suspension
RatHead
Well-known member
Don't hit a pot hole in that thing
440shorty
Well-known member
More updates
I've been thinking...
Actually, some details have changed, but nothing major.
(1) I now have a (used) griffin aluminum radiator that fits better than the Dodge one. It actually is visible in the latest pics.
(2) I've decided to add a rear crossmember, mainly to facilitate putting the chassis/body on my rotisserie, but it will also add strength, act as a rear bumper, and will have a hitch receiver too. It will also pick up the stock rear bed mount bolts. Picture a crossmember connecting the rear frame rails in the pic.
(3) I have a circle track rack, and still want to use it. This will allow the front frame horns to be cut off, completing the look. Pics to follow.
(4) This is anti-tech. As little as possible electrically. I'm pitching the entire dash, and plan on only a little gauge pod over the steering column, and some sort of heater box inside the truck. I guess some sort of glove box would be good, too. Maybe behind the seat. I might not even run a speedometer, but that would drive the insurance people nuts. Maybe just an odometer, hidden behind the seat?
(5) Another idea that might have safety issues - a float-type visual fuel level indicator - think home heating oil tank gauge - sticking out the top of the fuel tank so that you can see it in the rear view mirror.
(6) also kicking around ideas for headlights and taillights. Do I stay square with the headlights or go round? Use stock taillights (see pic), or fill the openings and go with round taillights? I also have Bravada taillights that have the Olds Rocket emblem in them. OR, I have a pair of round '63 Chrysler Newport taillights, and was thinking of mounting them on the cab corners, below the rear window but above the corner of the bed. I'll have to mock those up and take pics next time I go to the shop. I have a pic of a mock-up of dual headlights here. I also have larger single round sealed-beams with buckets. Another idea was the extra small rectangular headlights in the ends of the frame (after they are cut back).
(7) Turns out the black 455 has the stick crank, and the blue one doesn't, so I'll be swapping intakes and using the black engine in the truck (the one that is in it now). However, I have script Oldsmobile valve covers and will probably paint the engine GOLD like they were in the 60s.
(8) Headers like those in the pic below, or zoomies like the ones on the blue engine??
I appreciate the words of encouragement and welcome comments.
440shorty
I've been thinking...
Actually, some details have changed, but nothing major.
(1) I now have a (used) griffin aluminum radiator that fits better than the Dodge one. It actually is visible in the latest pics.
(2) I've decided to add a rear crossmember, mainly to facilitate putting the chassis/body on my rotisserie, but it will also add strength, act as a rear bumper, and will have a hitch receiver too. It will also pick up the stock rear bed mount bolts. Picture a crossmember connecting the rear frame rails in the pic.
(3) I have a circle track rack, and still want to use it. This will allow the front frame horns to be cut off, completing the look. Pics to follow.
(4) This is anti-tech. As little as possible electrically. I'm pitching the entire dash, and plan on only a little gauge pod over the steering column, and some sort of heater box inside the truck. I guess some sort of glove box would be good, too. Maybe behind the seat. I might not even run a speedometer, but that would drive the insurance people nuts. Maybe just an odometer, hidden behind the seat?
(5) Another idea that might have safety issues - a float-type visual fuel level indicator - think home heating oil tank gauge - sticking out the top of the fuel tank so that you can see it in the rear view mirror.
(6) also kicking around ideas for headlights and taillights. Do I stay square with the headlights or go round? Use stock taillights (see pic), or fill the openings and go with round taillights? I also have Bravada taillights that have the Olds Rocket emblem in them. OR, I have a pair of round '63 Chrysler Newport taillights, and was thinking of mounting them on the cab corners, below the rear window but above the corner of the bed. I'll have to mock those up and take pics next time I go to the shop. I have a pic of a mock-up of dual headlights here. I also have larger single round sealed-beams with buckets. Another idea was the extra small rectangular headlights in the ends of the frame (after they are cut back).
(7) Turns out the black 455 has the stick crank, and the blue one doesn't, so I'll be swapping intakes and using the black engine in the truck (the one that is in it now). However, I have script Oldsmobile valve covers and will probably paint the engine GOLD like they were in the 60s.
(8) Headers like those in the pic below, or zoomies like the ones on the blue engine??
I appreciate the words of encouragement and welcome comments.
440shorty
Attachments
Bonehead
Skull Master
I still really like this build. The rear picture is very cool, and what ever tail lights you decide should work well. The exhaust, wow. But lets talk about the grill and headlight ring picture...... I don't think it fits the rest of the truck. Just my opinion, but I also don't like the idea of square headlight either. Maybe I need to see what you are thiking. This is probably going to be the hardest part of the build to pull off. Maybe you could re size an old grill from a 50's chevy pu? I don't know. At any rate, the build is so cool so far. Keep up the good work.
moronthethrottle
Cross Member
I've been staring at your pic of the front end for 20 minutes now and think your "pair of 8's" headlights are the way to go...they seem to smooth out the boxy look of the square grille. Rectangular headlights would match the grille, but might make the whole thing look too rigid...on the other hand it may make the front end look more aggressive. It would be interesting to see some mocked up there.
I like where your going with this. Any plans on the rearend? It looks like you may want some 150#-175# springs back there...maybe some adjustable shocks to help hook up on the track and then soften up for driving. Just a thought.
With your engine that far back you're flirting with the basic design of a dirt track modified. Don't abandon your thoughts of a roll cage-you will need it more for stiffening the frame than for safety. Keep it up, we're all diggin' it!
I like where your going with this. Any plans on the rearend? It looks like you may want some 150#-175# springs back there...maybe some adjustable shocks to help hook up on the track and then soften up for driving. Just a thought.
With your engine that far back you're flirting with the basic design of a dirt track modified. Don't abandon your thoughts of a roll cage-you will need it more for stiffening the frame than for safety. Keep it up, we're all diggin' it!
screwshiney
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2009
- Messages
- 52
well after looking through this whole thread i still don't know what to think of this thing. while i think it's ugly as hell, i love different things and what you're doing with it lol. i think you should run the zoomies, round headlights, a sight gauge on the side of the cell rather than a tube out of the top. the bed i still have mixed feelings about though.
440shorty
Well-known member
Junkyard Score
I just read in the March 2009 issue of Hot Rod Deluxe about the Buick under seat heaters, so I went to one of the local Crazy Ray's U-pick-it style junkyards and saw the hulk of an early 50s Buick. I couldn't really tell what year it was, since it was missing the driveline and what wasn't rusty was bent up. But the seats were still in it, and also the buried treasure! I got me an under seat heater! The plan was to rip the entire dash out of the cab anyway, but I still wanted heat. Now I can hide the heater under the seat and maintain that bare-bones basic look I seek.
First Pic is of the heater in its natural habitat.
The rest are of it at home. Looks really good, and it still had plenty of green coolant in it when I cut the old hoses.
Isn't the parts chasing one of the best parts of hot rodding?
440shorty
I just read in the March 2009 issue of Hot Rod Deluxe about the Buick under seat heaters, so I went to one of the local Crazy Ray's U-pick-it style junkyards and saw the hulk of an early 50s Buick. I couldn't really tell what year it was, since it was missing the driveline and what wasn't rusty was bent up. But the seats were still in it, and also the buried treasure! I got me an under seat heater! The plan was to rip the entire dash out of the cab anyway, but I still wanted heat. Now I can hide the heater under the seat and maintain that bare-bones basic look I seek.
First Pic is of the heater in its natural habitat.
The rest are of it at home. Looks really good, and it still had plenty of green coolant in it when I cut the old hoses.
Isn't the parts chasing one of the best parts of hot rodding?
440shorty
Attachments
ANNAMEL
Well-known member
nice build Looks like you are having fun with it also.Keep up the good work
440shorty
Well-known member
Back on track
It has been a long time since anything has been done to the S-10 truck project. Turns out having a shop 90+ miles away is just too far away to accomplish anything. So, finally, after three years of sitting, the truck has been moved to my 'new' garage that is 7 minutes from work! [cl
The shop move is almost complete, and must be done this month (October '11). I have a shop thread in the garage section.
Meantime, I have accumulated a few parts, thought of a few more things, and started working on the truck again! More pictures and progress to follow. The goal is have it on the road by April 2012 and do the Hot Rod Power Tour 2012.
Stay tuned!
440shorty
It has been a long time since anything has been done to the S-10 truck project. Turns out having a shop 90+ miles away is just too far away to accomplish anything. So, finally, after three years of sitting, the truck has been moved to my 'new' garage that is 7 minutes from work! [cl
The shop move is almost complete, and must be done this month (October '11). I have a shop thread in the garage section.
Meantime, I have accumulated a few parts, thought of a few more things, and started working on the truck again! More pictures and progress to follow. The goal is have it on the road by April 2012 and do the Hot Rod Power Tour 2012.
Stay tuned!
440shorty
agdeuce
Well-known member
Interesting
This build is growing on me. I like the idea of fairly new metal and old looks. I say put the seat on the floor, the cool heater behind the seat and whack the top. Now we are talking old school. Great work, great fun and keep on going.[cl
See now I am starting think about ANOTHER build. Shoot here I was never going to build again. Now look whats happened. Darn Steve
This build is growing on me. I like the idea of fairly new metal and old looks. I say put the seat on the floor, the cool heater behind the seat and whack the top. Now we are talking old school. Great work, great fun and keep on going.[cl
See now I am starting think about ANOTHER build. Shoot here I was never going to build again. Now look whats happened. Darn Steve
440shorty
Well-known member
2012 Updates
Now that the new shop is fairly functional (and a project in its own right) progress has been ... well, up and down. But there has been progress!!
The (slightly) new direction give the project a name:
THE CASTOFF
Most everything I've been using and plan to use is a left over or cast-off part that no one would use anyway. Isn't that what hot rodding of the 50s was all about?
Below are pics of the truck sitting more like it should. Since the chassis is '78 Cutlass, I measured the ride height and angle of the control arms of my wagon, then cut wooden spacer blocks to replace the rear springs and set the proper ride height. Up front, I just took the springs out for now.
The Mickey Thompson L-60 15s are now on the 10" Slots and hold air.
440shorty
Now that the new shop is fairly functional (and a project in its own right) progress has been ... well, up and down. But there has been progress!!
The (slightly) new direction give the project a name:
THE CASTOFF
Most everything I've been using and plan to use is a left over or cast-off part that no one would use anyway. Isn't that what hot rodding of the 50s was all about?
Below are pics of the truck sitting more like it should. Since the chassis is '78 Cutlass, I measured the ride height and angle of the control arms of my wagon, then cut wooden spacer blocks to replace the rear springs and set the proper ride height. Up front, I just took the springs out for now.
The Mickey Thompson L-60 15s are now on the 10" Slots and hold air.
440shorty
Attachments
Studebaker
Well-known member
If u said it before i didnt catch it, but are you gonna chop that top??
