48 fire truck roadster

[DJ3100]

Ordered a Mallory 8360M distributor and 8207M coil from Amazon (free shipping and no handling). Amazon was almost $50 cheaper than Summit.

Got a water pump and power steering pump yesterday. I have the alternator, so I should be able to start working the mounts and serpentine belt.

A couple steps closer to starting the motor, or at least, trying to start the motor.

 

[DJ3100]

Ordered the distributor yesterday, got it today - no tax, shipping or handling charge and it was $15 cheaper. $205 total for the coil and distributor! Gotta love Amazon.

I got a Mallory Promaster street/strip and Promaster coil. It came with advance bushings and springs. The only problem is the "Made in China" sticker on the distributor box. Wasn't expecting that.

I got the bracket for the power steering pump (or hydroboost pump) almost done and figured out the alternator bracket.

 

[DJ3100]

Here's the accessory brackets. I used a belt tensioner for a 2000 Chevy 6.0. and forged the brackets from 3/4" square.

It turned out that the PS steering bracket was not almost done, but only beginning to give me grief. The PS pulley was out of plane with the others. I set the bracket up in the Bridgeport and indicated the pump mounting holes, which were with-in .002" of being in line. I added a third mounting bolt that goes to the side of the engine while I held the pulley in alignment. At any rate, it's still not perfect but it's probably close enough.

 

[earthman]

I was never fooled Dan. I knew you had more than enough skills to build an excellent engine.

 

[truckster]

That isn't much of a description for that much work.[cl

 

[jfg455]

serp belts are hard and easy at the smae time. if one pulley is off or out of line a little bit the belt will run fine. BUT it may cause a squeaking noise that you will chase and pull your hair out trying to find. Looks good though! [P

 

[DJ3100]

That isn't much of a description for that much work.[cl

It was only about 4 hours of forging, welding and machining. AND 4 days of trying to figure out what to do and why the PS pulley wouldn't get in line with everyone else.

I think the pulley is kicked in 1/32 over the diameter of the pulley. I hope the belt will stay on. If it does squeak, I'll know who the culprit is.

As far as the engine goes: I have the belt, which means a water pump, but now I need fittings for the PS pump (can't run it dry) and hydroboost, and radiator hoses before I can try to start it. Oh yeah, I still have to come up with a couple carbs. So, I don't actually know if I built a good engine or a dud.

 

[DJ3100]

I took the belt brackets and the headlight bar to get powdercoated, so they'll be gone for up to 10 days.

Ever since I discovered the limitation on the size of the steering wheel due to the width of the cab, I have been thinking power steering might be a better choice over the manual box I had.

I took the manual box to Benchworks. Pat id'd it as a GM truck box from the '80s. A PS box from 1980 to 1992 has the same dimensions, except the splined sector shaft is larger and the ratio is much quicker. Since I'm already running the PS pump for the hydroboost there isn't much to add. So I now have a PS box and need to remake the steering arm.

 

[DJ3100]

The little fitting with the hose barb has eluded my procurement attempts as has the power steering pump pressure fitting. They don't come with the pump -you're supposed to remove the old one before giving them the core. Benchworks gave me both fittings - the PS fitting even has a 6-AN TIG welded on.

The power steering box (Benchworks didn't give me the PS box) bolts right in (although I had to put 1/4" spacers under it) and the splined universal on the input shaft works. But there isn't much room between the fittings and the motor mount. I found some banjo fittings on line that will work.

The PS box output shaft is a different size and I wanted more material around the hole on the upper boss. I bored a tapered hole in 1.3/4" mild steel to fit the tie rod end. The new shaft is on the right - full penetration TIG weld and preheated both pieces. Let it cool in Vermiculite for about an hour.

 

[AZ4GEMAN]

DJ
That original steering arm was pretty wimpy. Good call on the replacement.

 

[Johnson]

Wow, so much progress since I checked in last.... You had just done the string wrapped steering wheel thing then. Looks killer man!

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks, sometimes it doesn't feel like there is any progress at all.

Here's a pic of the steering arm in place. I bored the taper on the lathe, welded it on the arm and then used a tapered reamer to true it up. I'm a lot happier with the fit and visual look than the other one.

I got some banjo to 6 AN fittings for the power steering box from Pure Choice Motorsports. It's a tight fit but it'll work.

The hydroboost is pretty much plumbed. I'll need a bit of a hump in the floor to clear the fittings, but that will be under the seat or right at the front of it.

The serpentine brackets are still at powder coat, so I can't complete the PS pump end of the lines.

 

[jfg455]

lookin good. I like the banjos. clean look to them. [P

 

[DJ3100]

Not trying to discourage any of you other builders, but I still hate plumbing.
Here's why:

Brake hoses, master cylinder fittings, check valves, proportioning valve, steel brake tube and fittings...

Hydroboost to 6AN adapter fittings, hose, power steering banjos, hose and fittings (and some were free)...

Fuel line and fittings...

I have spent most of $700 on plumbing. But, I still don't have the transmission cooler lines or radiator hoses. None of these are braided stainless, everything is low buck, but it is mostly AN stuff.

I guess I should be thankful there's no air conditioning.

 

[jfg455]

This is why I run most of my stuff in SS hard line. It is only about $35 - $65 per roll of 20 FT (3/16" - 3/8") then all you need is the flared nuts for the ends. I use it for vacuum lines, fuel lines, trans cooler lines etc. Can't use it for P/S though, doesn't flex. Most of the rolls are polished too. [P

 

[DJ3100]

This is why I run most of my stuff in SS hard line. It is only about $35 - $65 per roll of 20 FT (3/16" - 3/8") then all you need is the flared nuts for the ends. I use it for vacuum lines, fuel lines, trans cooler lines etc. Can't use it for P/S though, doesn't flex. Most of the rolls are polished too. [P

I could have saved some $$ on the fuel lines by running steel lines most of the way. But, I found out on the '48 F2stang that having AN fittings made everything easier to deal with when I needed to make some changes later on. The dual outlet on the tank also added $$.

The brakes still need the hoses so the wheels turn and the suspension works. The custom hoses were about the same price ($30) as the stock, off the shelf hoses - I needed two of each. Other than that, they are all hard lines and not very expensive. I got a deal on the prop and check valves, but they were still $60 total.

The real cost is the hydroboost. If you run a vacuum booster, it takes about $3 of vacuum line. Put the hydroboost under the floor and everything gets expensive - long, expensive, high pressure lines with a custom end took about $300.

 

[DJ3100]

Bed

I have been working on the bed in between chasing plumbing fittings.

I put in a stop for the lid and a lip for the weather strip. A weather strip sample is in the corner.

The beginnings of the hinges closed and open. I need to work an elegant way to mount it to the bed and still have some adjustment.

 

[DJ3100]

Here's the installed trunk hinges and a stiffener to keep the center from binding.

I found the hood latch from the Mercstang and used it, along with the hardened washers, bolts and nut plates. I made the strike plate. It's going to need a popper.

I haven't decided whether to use gas struts or a prop yet.

 

[DJ3100]

Here's the accessory brackets back from powdercoat. the color matches the block pretty well. The stainless coolant recovery tank from Speedway was a quick and easy solution - and not all that expensive.

I tried the stock dipstick and realized it wasn't going to work with the headers. I took the easy way out and got a Lokar. It's not bolted up in the photo, but it will center up on the headers pretty well.

Got the hydroboost and power steering plumbing done - finally.

It is tight around the steering box and motor mount, but nothing touches.

 

[DJ3100]

Transmission

I decided to go with the mostly stock 700R4 I have. Since it will never tow anything and the skinny, hard tires won't be able to hook up, I'm trying to convince myself the big block won't do any damage to the tranny.

I ordered a flexplate and a shorty dipstick, but still need a slip yoke, speedo housing, dust cover, shifter and coolant lines and fittings (more plumbing). Then I can get a driveshaft.