Every Kid's Dream

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A family from another part of the world could live in that cab. Hurry up and get it done so we can have the pleasure of viewing it.
I did find this picture where the seat back was built so that it hinges up to create bunkbeds.......not sure if top or bottom bunk is worse.
FB_IMG_1702919957000.jpg
 
Last edited:
This is what I'm thinking of doing for the front frame notch. I want to tuck the airbags up into the notch about 6 inches. The massive frame support up top will let me move the upper shock mount way up in the fender. I was planning on making the arched piece from frame material and welding it to the top of the frame. I would then cut the notch and patch in the lower flange.


20230903_094341.jpg
 
The RV frame is probably stupid overkill for a pickup. It is 9 inches tall. If I use a piece of frame to build the notch, I can fit it under the Seagrave inner fenders. I'm guessing this will let me lower the truck at least a foot and still have suspension travel.

How thick does the frame need to be over the airbags on this thing? 6 inches? 9 inches?

20240419_185721.jpg
 
How thick the frame needs to be over the air bags will depend on the weight involved, both as driven, and as it might ever be loaded.
With an estimated weight range, such numbers can be calculated. Without any idea of the weight involved, everything is just a guess. The shear size of the parts tells me it needs to have at least 6"- 8" above the bags.
 
How thick the frame needs to be over the air bags will depend on the weight involved, both as driven, and as it might ever be loaded.
With an estimated weight range, such numbers can be calculated. Without any idea of the weight involved, everything is just a guess. The shear size of the parts tells me it needs to have at least 6"- 8" above the bags.
Engine is a Cummins 8.3 and trans is a Allison 3060. Engine is supposed to be over 1500 lbs, trans is 575 lbs plus fluids.

The truck is just going to be a street rod and not haul heavy loads.
 
My previous idea for bag location is flawed. The cutout for the bag would take out the VIN on the frame. I did some CAD (cardboard aided design) work and might have something that will work. The RV sway bar mounting bracket is made from 1" plate. It is beefy, but not big enough to weld link brackets to as is. I need to make it bigger.
I am going to extend the baseplate by adding 3/8" plate.

Ignore the mess.


20240421_134207.jpg


20240421_140553.jpg
20240421_134053.jpg
 
So will the 3/8" steel plates the cardboard represent bolt to the frame with existing holes or brackets on the current frame?

Are you keeping at least the main leaf to keep the axle positioned, or how are you going to keep the axle properly positioned? Maybe I'm just not getting the full vision here.
 
So will the 3/8" steel plates the cardboard represent bolt to the frame with existing holes or brackets on the current frame?

Are you keeping at least the main leaf to keep the axle positioned, or how are you going to keep the axle properly positioned? Maybe I'm just not getting the full vision here.
These are the 4 link brackets on the front axle. It will bolt to the axle where the leaf springs would normally go (although this RV never had leaf springs...it had elastomer torsion bars).

Previous idea had the link mount above the axle and the bag in front of that. Now everything has scooted rearward. Links are 18-wheeler parts. They mount with 1" diameter bolts. Bags will now be bolted down through one of the axle mounting holes.

Previous idea:

20231125_133933.jpg

20231125_130805.jpg
 
Make sure to have clearance bag to bracket because, some bags balloon out when airing them up.
I was looking at that yesterday. I currently have about an inch, but there is room inside the bracket to allow me to shave the corner off for more clearance.

I went back And looked at the part prints that were on Amazon when I bought these bags....they don't match what I have. The bags I have are bigger. I think this will be better for the truck if I can fit them......but it would be nice to know what the diameter is supposed to be.
20240421_134137.jpg
 
Last edited:
There are stock bags on my Southwind. Basically a P30 General motors frame. I can check and see what clearance it shows on the bags.
 
After checking I doubt my info will help. The front bags are inside of coil springs with very little clearance if any to the inner surface of the springs. The rear bags are on leaf springs with 1" clearance at it's closest of bag to metal.
 
After checking I doubt my info will help. The front bags are inside of coil springs with very little clearance if any to the inner surface of the springs. The rear bags are on leaf springs with 1" clearance at it's closest of bag to metal.
The top flange is 9 inches on my bags. Puffed out can't be 9.12 inches.


Screenshot_20240422_121617_Samsung Internet.jpg

I did find this drawing for one of the part numbers that is supposed to be similar. 11.4 inches diameter? I need to look at my patterns using that dimension this next weekend.

Screenshot_20240422_121455_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Ok, trying to figure out proportions. My first mock-up had two feet of bed space ahead of the fender and a foot behind the fender (fender is 5ft long). This puts the bed about 8 ft long.....and about 149" for a wheelbase.

Going back to the gray one that inspired me way back when, they do not have two feet ahead of the fender, maybe a foot? This would be in the ballpark of 137" with my cab length.

Both of these wheelbases are in the realm of full size pickups.

Is 6 foot enough bed for a big ole truck with 5 foot long fenders?

also, I should be able to put this 8.3 cummins completely behind the axle with about a 5 inch firewall recess. I might have to go a smidgen more to hide the intercooler. In this big ole cab, that isn't much of an intrusion.

IMG_1792-1024x458.jpg
 
Going back to the gray truck. I think I could do this ride height with my big truck air bags without having to do step notches. Maybe just squared up "c-notches" to tuck the bags up a couple of inches. ....nowhere near the 10 inches or so that I had been planning so I could raise the fenders and section the splash pans.

Would a truck more like the gray truck be cool enough? Or should I butcher this thing?
 
A four wheel version of this is what my mind had been drifting towards. ....not exactly, but more along the lines of this (stupid low with the frame low and the engine raised. And my alcoas converted to 22" for the front).
FB_IMG_1715996579260.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top