Floor board instalation opions please...

[Torchie]

Going to put in the main section of my cab floor board tomorrow.
I was planning on welding the sheet steel to the frame from underneath. Or would I be better off plug welding the sheet to the frame from above? Kind of hate to drill holes in that pretty floor.
I wouldn't be working under the cab so that's not an issue. Just looking for the strongest way.
There will be no perimiter welding done on the floor pan at all other than possibly along the rear of the cab.
As you can see from the pis. Lots of frame to weld to.
Thanks in advance..
Torchie.

 

[Old Iron]

If you're gonna let the floor show then weld underneath. If you're gonna put sound deadener on the floor then drill and plug weld. jmho

 

[kenny c]

Like Old Iron said. If you are going to seam seal the bottom it may make life a little easier if it is plug welded. Just my 2 cents.

 

[donsrods]

One more option is to glue the floor down with panel adhesive like the body shops use, put in clecos until it sets up, then pop rivet it down with stainless rivets. That way no moisture can get under it and no welding needed. It will also never rattle.
Don

 

[I-R-POPS]

One more option is to glue the floor down with panel adhesive like the body shops use, put in clecos until it sets up, then pop rivet it down with stainless rivets. That way no moisture can get under it and no welding needed. It will also never rattle.
Don

What kind of adhesive to they use Don? That's the way I did my '48 Dodge and the way I plan on doing my '47 that I'm working on now. I just used silicone which seems to be doing a good job. I would think some kind of adhesive might hold better.

Don't mean to hijack your bizness Torchie. Inquiring mind want to know things.

Your floor is looking good. Stay after it.

 

[smallfoot]

I'm no help. I won't decide until I get it on the road and see how it feels hot wise and noise wise. I run bare sheet floors in my C-10 without problems either way. I think I know how you'll wind up doing tho...Probably the way it looks best to you...to hell with hard hard it is.
Right now I'm leaning toward small sheets and all welds edge on framing underneath with additional welding to the subframe from below...still undecided on insulation.

 

[Torchie]

Pops.There is a special 2 part adhesive that body shops use. Glue isn't to bad price wise but the gun /applicator is a bit pricey as I remember as I priced one out to possibly use when i finally get around to the hood.

No problems on the hijack Don. It's all about sharing the knowledge and frankly I hadn't even thought about using adhesive.

You know it smallfoot. Sometimes I just doubt myself so I like to hear what others have to say.[S
Anyway the issue is currently being answered as I am tacking it in from the bottom. Then I will use seam sealer pior to painting to keep out the moisture.
Thanks for all the responses.
Torchie.

 

[donsrods]

Pops, Torchie is right, it is a two part adhesive that uses a special "caulking gun" to dispense it. Body shops now use the stuff to install body panels with no welding needed, it is that tough and adhesive. We like it because no water can get under the floor, we coat the whole top side of the subframe with it and cleco it down until it cures. The rivets are only there to fill up the cleco holes and to look good.

But the way Torchie is doing it works fine too.

Don