Resto-Mod Micro Car w/Sport Bike Power

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I am going to use the original R1 motorcycle gas tank and mount it in the truck of the Autobianchi. I made the rear mount today along with more roll cage to body connections...complete with lightening holes.

[/url]20170509_160942_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20170509_161002_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Also used some exhaust tubing to start fabricating the floor. The tubing surround the rear section of the upper control arm. It is slotted to allow movement. The caps are for access to the control arm nut.

[/url]20170509_161116_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

These are just plumbing caps which I have machined down to fit.

[/url]20170509_161547_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Getting started on the radiator install. I am using copper tubing to route the coolant from the engine to the radiator which will be mounted up front. If all goes as planned, I should be able to mount the radiator with sufficient air flow and also mount a spare tire under the hood. I purchased two 10' lengths of 3/4" copper tubing and a variety of fittings. The R1 engine uses 1" diameter coolant hoses which will fit nicely over the copper tubing. The OD of the tubing fitting is very close to 1".

[/url]20170608_124322_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

The tubing comes in a couple of different wall thicknesses, I went with the thickest, the "L" variety.

[/url]20170608_124345_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

I have seen this tubing used on some street rods in the past and feel confident that it will work here as well. This will be my first attempt at sweating copper joints, so we'll see how it goes. Also picked up a propane torch and other tools necessary for the job. The tubing is very affordable but the fitting add up quickly. I hope to return several after the job is completed.

Besides 45 and 90 degree fittings, I also purchased some with wide threaded ends. I machined off a portion so as to duplicate the dimensions of the radiator inlet and outlet flanges. The fittings will be sweated on to each end of the tubing to give the rubber radiator hoses a proper attachment point.

[/url]20170608_124429_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

The machined piece is resting on the radiator to show the mirror image. The radiator in the photos is a used and abused one. I have a new one on hand when the time comes to install it for good.

[/url]20170608_124439_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]
Looking good, Ben. You've got enough copper tube to cool it even without a radiator!

I don't think it will hurt!

Removing 6" from each half shaft to accommodate the narrowed miata subframe

[/url]half half shaft by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Made a fixture from a piece of heavy wall angle iron to hold the two sections of shaft in line. I beveled the cut ends and welded the two halves together. Then slid a collar over the weld and welded in the collar for extra strength.

[/url]half shaft by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20170619_140551_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20170619_140607_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

The R1 powered Micro Car is getting very close to being drivable, at least around the block! I cut and reshaped one of the front fenders today as it was preventing the wheels from turning both left and right. I knew that if I left the repair until after it is drivable, that I would get too anxious and try to drive it anyway. So...

For some reason the wheel opening on the left side of the car was 1 1/2" smaller than the one the right side. I cut a long pie shape out of the front half on the wheel opening, pulled the two pieces together and welded it back up

[/url]20170621_155211_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]
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I'm wondering if you are going to expand your horizon and use say...grey primer...Lol [cl

Car is looking great!

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