window regulators

[HandOverFist]

Working on this '46 Chevy cab trying to get the door windows operational. After getting everything apart I found the driver side regulator is damaged, but the window is fine. The passenger side regulator is good, but the glass is busted.

Just looking to get these operational for cold or wet drives. I'm going to order a replacement gear for the driver side regulator and attempt to repair it...you can see some missing teeth in the attached photo's. Anyone have any tips on replacing this gear? I see there is one attachment rivet, but the other larger fastner I'm unsure of. Is it a threaded bolt/screw?

 

[bob w]

I'd make a pattern of a section of the good teeth. Then cut out a section containing the damaged teeth and weld in a new piece of the same gauge metal. trace the tooth pattern on the piece and fashion new teeth with an angle grinder with a cut off wheel or a die grinder or whatever tool(s) work for you.

 

[HandOverFist]

I'm thinking I would rather just replace the entire gear. Ordering some new window run channel and another window glass for the passenger side...might consider using lexan no more than these will be used. Windows stay down better than 95% of the time anyway. I just want the ability to roll them up in extreme cold and for the times I get caught in the rain. No fenders will soak you good thru the openings from wheel spray lol!

I already found the need for some structural repairs in the passenger door.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

might consider using lexan no more than these will be used.

You'll regret it. Lexan scratches easily, and in a roll up/down scenario it will look like crap in no time. Not to mention be a bear to see through, especially if wet.

Flat glass is cheap, take your good one to a local glass shop and have them make you a copy. You'll be much happier with the results and it will look great too.

 

[HandOverFist]

You'll regret it. Lexan scratches easily, and in a roll up/down scenario it will look like crap in no time. Not to mention be a bear to see through, especially if wet.

Flat glass is cheap, take your good one to a local glass shop and have them make you a copy. You'll be much happier with the results and it will look great too.

You see what the rat truck looks like...not too concerned with looks. Besides, the window itself does not rub against anything being in a frame. If it did even a glass version would be scratched beyond belief in short order. I was considering lexan for the weight savings as it would greatly improve the action of rolling it up/down. Like I said earlier, the windows in this truck are always down anyway.

Hoping to get some info on that regulator before tearing into it blindly.

 

[kenny c]

Bob W has the right idea. If it were mine I would build it up with weld and grind flat and file in some teeth. That rivet is stationary and more work to remove and reinstall in the right position than repairing the gear teeth.

 

[kenny c]

Bob W has the right idea. If it were mine I would build it up with weld and grind flat and file in some teeth. That rivet is stationary and more work to remove and reinstall in the right position than repairing the gear teeth. One way to weld the gear is to clamp a piece of copper flat stock against it and weld along the damaged teeth. That way you will only have to grind one side and you will have less warpage

 

[HandOverFist]

Bob W has the right idea. If it were mine I would build it up with weld and grind flat and file in some teeth. That rivet is stationary and more work to remove and reinstall in the right position than repairing the gear teeth.

There are only two points of attachment...it can't be installed incorrectly as there is no adjustment. I can get another gear easily...why not replace it? If it were the door handle side you would not be able to affect such a repair...luckily that part is also available. I'm guessing nobody has the answer to my original question at the moment thus I will proceed in the dark as usual lol.

 

[HandOverFist]

While pondering the regulator repair I tackled the door glass/frame. Turned out to be not much issue with only two rivets holding the bottom channel to the main hoop. Although these frames are in poor shape I think they will still be useable after some rust removal...the main thing is to get the side surfaces slick enough to not bind in the run channels.

I cleaned/lubed the regulators this morning and have them working actually pretty smoothly. With only four teeth missing on the one gear I have decided to give that welding idea a chance...nothing to lose but time I suppose. Ordered a replacement glass and new run channel...I'll let you know how it turns out in the end. Thanks for the assistance!

 

[23crate]

welding should work ok if all else is smooth..

had you considered finding a sedan lh side,, should be the same , maybe only arm length to cut and weld ? may be a quicker fix..

 

[HandOverFist]

welding should work ok if all else is smooth..

had you considered finding a sedan lh side,, should be the same , maybe only arm length to cut and weld ? may be a quicker fix..

Other than the gear itself I have been unable to locate a driver side regulator.

 

[Old Iron]

If you'll place a piece of copper under the area you're gonna ad teeth to, it'll be much easier to get what you want.

 

[05snopro440]

Unfortunately for these trucks, some stuff is reproduced and there are things like this that just aren't. Unless you're lucky finding a good used piece, you have to make a new one or rebuild what you've got. In this case, the guys are right that welding is probably a good repair plan.

I also agree with the guys not to use lexan. Just go with glass and you don't have to deal with replacing the lexan later. Regardless of how much you think you'll use them, they'll get scratched.

Unless it's a weird photo angle, it looks like they removed the door bottom and didn't replace it when they sectioned the cab. I'd strongly suggest that you put a bottom back on the door while you're in there too.

 

[HandOverFist]

Unfortunately for these trucks, some stuff is reproduced and there are things like this that just aren't. Unless you're lucky finding a good used piece, you have to make a new one or rebuild what you've got. In this case, the guys are right that welding is probably a good repair plan.

I also agree with the guys not to use lexan. Just go with glass and you don't have to deal with replacing the lexan later. Regardless of how much you think you'll use them, they'll get scratched.

Unless it's a weird photo angle, it looks like they removed the door bottom and didn't replace it when they sectioned the cab. I'd strongly suggest that you put a bottom back on the door while you're in there too.

Here is the gear in case the weld does not work out... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Chevy-GMC-Truck-Window-Regulator-Gear-1934-1946/273168025451

I'm only replacing the broken passenger glass and yes, I ordered real glass ($45). If the situation had called for both I likely would have used lexan for the weight savings as well as the end of breakage concerns. The passenger windshield is cracked, but I'm not dealing with that unless it becomes necessary.

Not an optical illusion...it is missing metal in the passenger side door opening. Be my guess they probably ran out of metal or patience at the time lol. I'll do something there if for no other reason than to stop up a huge air draft intrusion. I think more important is that missing door brace in the door itself...an indication that may have been a contributing factor in the glass breakage to begin with.