50s Ford F1 Build

Watched the video for the engine firing. Pretty cool. Need to catch up on the rest of your build. Keep'r up!

There is always a list of need to buy stuff. I still have a running list, pretty sure it will never end.

Not a lot to report, been preoccupied with daily life stuff, and working on the daily driver...
Now needs rear wheel bearings which are going in later today hopefully, also needs brakes, PS pump, and a valve cover gasket which I may get done next weekend if I can manage...

I also have a weird shake up front that I can feel in the steering wheel when taking off from a dead stop... thinking maybe motor/trans mounts or a worn out CV shaft or maybe its from the slightly warped rotors up front or something, still sorting that out..

I did however start thinking about the steering box, researching where I can get a pitman arm for it, I think I want to go with heims or tie rods for the steering shaft, just need to make some calls about whether or not I can do that with the stock steering arm on the F1.... perhaps I'll post it up in the Q/A section to see what others have done here with the F1... I'm not a big fan of the ball in socket steering links...

Typically steering wheel shake on acceleration is a cv joint. Sometimes if they're bad you can lift it and move the wheel while holding the cup or axle and see where the movement is.
I'd start with the pass side inner joint, Rotors will cause a shake when braking.

Mounts will give a clunk, sometimes you get little feeling after the first clunk but that's pretty rare, power brake it in drive and if they're broke you'll know it. Check the rear by power braking in reverse, all you need to a quick hit of the throttle, just to load the system and let the engine move, if they're broke you get a big clunk every hit if the throttle.

leaky valve covers? LOL

looks like those valve covers are gonna leak bad with all those holes in them... haha

54IrrationalHarvester said:

looks like those valve covers are gonna leak bad with all those holes in them... haha

Click to expand...

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What did I miss?

Daily driver update only...

Good productive afternoon, got the wheel bearings in, and brakes all the way around finished up new pads, and turned rotors... I was kinda disappointed that the backing plates / shields for the rear brakes are rotting out badly... something that will have to get fixed in spring...

Next weekend will be another wrenching weekend on the daily I'm sure...

Sidenote: we put a deposit down on a rescue puppy =)

Just saw the video of the first fire, congrats. One big mile stone [cl

Congrats DR! First start up always gives a big boost in motivation. Getting close now

Thanks Gold!

Tonight I finally found the time to get some garage time in...
Worked on practicing double flaring 3/16" line which is a real pain at times. 1/4" however is much easier to work with.

I tried that new line they have its like copper nickel or something, more flexible, and supposedly easier to double flare, but I'm not convinced, at least on the 3/16" line.

Anyhow, I kinda figured out that after you use the initial flare insert to create the bubble, I raise the line back up slightly and flatten it just a little more with the insert and flare tool, then on to the 45 degree flare, seemed to work a little better that way on 3/16"...

Anyhow, I got the proportioning valve mounted, and the lines from the M/C to the proportioning valve flared, and bent. Next will be the residual valves, which I believe go right after the proportioning valve (close proximity).

Looks great. Has a nice clean look .

People are going to think that you are using soft copper for brake lines[ddd
I like it.
Torchie.

Looks good there DR. Gotta love double flaring those brake lines.
The only leak I had on mine was on a line that I got from Napa that was the right length. Had to cut their flare off and redo it.
Keep pecking at it!

Tonight I sorted out the fittings I need to follow the recommendation of the MP Brakes instructions to use 3/16" lines up front and 1/4" for the rear with this setup. So I got all the lines off the proportioning valve to the residual valves, so now I'll be probably ordering hard line from speedway because its so much cheaper than local stuff.

I need to find somewhere to get some longer lines for the front yet too, and some banjo bolts for the rear..

Ya know I am pretty jealous on how nice and purty yours is turning out.

I don't know where my head was, but I have DOT stainless steel braided lines that came with the rough country suspension bits I bought for this project... couple modifications and I'll be in business.

Need some flex lines at the rear calipers, and a couple banjo bolts, and the rest is just 3/16" lines now...

Anyone know what size banjo bolts a 2012 mustang rear caliper takes?

I have to agree with Neverdone, it is awful purdy
Good job

Thanks for the compliments Old Iron!
Quick note, I drilled out the banjo fittings on the stainless lines to accept the banjo bolts for the front calipers... have to shorten the length on the bolts, seems they are a little too long and are bottoming out in the caliper before sealing the line...

Rears I sorted out tonight, Mustang calipers are 10mm x 1.5 thread, so I'll be looking for a couple bolts hopefully tomorrow. Going to use the lines that were from the original kit for the front and put them on the rear... Need to order some brake line as well, but that may wait a little bit as I'm a bit sort on cash...

Couldn't find any bolts locally, so the local O'rileys ordered them in for me, might have to shorten these a touch as well, but at least I'll have bolts to bolt up the rear lines..

Going to do some real planning tomorrow for the lines to minimize the number of areas I need to re-flare the steel lines... 3/16 is a pain...

Probably do some paint stripping tomorrow and maybe some sheet metal work.

little steps!

I managed to get my banjo bolts pick up, and I shortened them all tonight so they don't bottom out in the caliper before clamping down on the copper washers...

Also sorted out the line routing for the flex lines, and welded the flex line mounts to the frame. And finally, I got the radiator overflow brackets welded on, and threw the overflow on to see how it looked...