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  1. O

    Let's see those lake style headers.

    The turndowns have baffles welded in them and are removable.
  2. O

    need help on metal thickness

    I have seen people use 1/8 wall, but I wouldnt. I think 3/16 is perfect, strong enough and thick enough to tap. 1/4 is probably over-kill, weighs a lot more and cost more. I think the biggest issue is how the frame is layed out, built, braced and welded.
  3. O

    Stock F1 Suspension

    It costs about 350 in parts to rebuild an entire f-1 front suspension, new king pins, leaf pins, u bolts, shackles, spring eye bushings, ect from lmc. I did all that and put new springs on and everything was nice and tight afterward.
  4. O

    3 link or 4?

    Heres how I did my rear setup, the parallel links are on the bottom, and this is with the bags all the way deflated.
  5. O

    Welding penetration tips...

    you should be using at least .30 dia wire for that, .25 is more for sheet metal work
  6. O

    another new shop car lol

    Im jealous, I ussually keep up on cars for sale in Ohio on craigslist, but have been busy lately. Looks great just how it is.
  7. O

    Which Master Cylinder?

    Thank you sir!
  8. O

    Which Master Cylinder?

    I was looking to that generation chevy truck for a m.c., but they are a little bulky. What year mustang did you use, im having trouble finding a dual port manual drum one.
  9. O

    Which Master Cylinder?

    Are the cylinders you guys are using single or dual ports?
  10. O

    Which Master Cylinder?

    Anyone have any insight/experience on a good master cylinder to use for my all drum, non power setup. I would like to keep things simple, just a master cylinder, and not a bunch of valves and proportioning blocks. I have 1950 ford truck drums up front, and Chevy S-10 rear drums. I am going...
  11. O

    My 1950 F-1

    I generally don't like how the f-1 axles look fender-less when people adapt them to single spring. I have been considering rack steering, but will probably end up doing a traditional setup. The rear end is from a later model 4x4 s-10. I did work on it today and made some progress.
  12. O

    greetings from ohio.

    I like the s10, im from the toledo area.
  13. O

    My 1950 F-1

    I started working on this around last August, when I dragged all the crap out of some guys backyard/storage sheds. My plan is to make a fender-less old school truck. First thing I did was chop the cab about 3 inches, but the more I think about it, the more I want to chop it another 3 and...
  14. O

    NW Ohio Guy

    I am from the Ohio/Mi area, have known about this site for a little while but never took the time to post. Mostly just used it to hunt down parts while I was overseas. Im into all kinds of cars fast, low and loud. I don't mess with anything but the chevy stuff for engines/trans usually. I...
  15. O

    Front spring problem.?

    i am in the same boat as you, the front spring i ordered from speedway for my 46-48 ford car axle is 2 inch wide, where my perch bolts are 1 and 3/4, i was just going to get 2 inch shackles and use a washer on each side of the perch bolt to make it 2 inches.
  16. O

    Trouble finding a spring perch for this axle.

    Thanks for the response, that helps much!
  17. O

    Trouble finding a spring perch for this axle.

    I have a 46-48 ford axle, the kind where the spring is mounted in front of the axle on the ends of the wishbones. I have seen companies that make the perches that allow the spring to mount to them and sit over the axle, but speedway only has them listed for 1928-34 ford axles. Will these also...
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