1936 chevy low cab build 1.5T

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Update part 2

I also got the gas pedal installed... I went with a cable set up on the throttle...



I made this little jogged bracket to mount the cable... This cause me much anger this weekend... I was wire wheeling it before painting it.. The wheel grabbed it (as I'm sure we have all experienced) and through it right into the side of my dads 57... The cars covered but not enough to stop something like this... It caught right on the drivers rear fender insert... Put a real nice ding in it... I felt terrible.. Dad took it in stride.. Said the amount of work we have done back there this is relatively minor..

 
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I had a wire wheel on a pedestal grinder and finally threw it way. Too many near catastrophes with it. I replaced it with a maroon Scotchbrite wheel which does nearly the same thing, but doesn't throw stuff around the shop or at me.

The bracket looks great like everything else you do.
 
Thanks guys.. im nearing the end of the detail work I have planned.. I got one more idea im tossing around in my head.. we will see... (well maybe 2)

wiring is basically done now too.. the turn signals arent working.. so I will need to chase that down at some point.. but thats not a make or break to getting it around the block

My dad has been working on the interior door skins.. they were pretty rough... and you need them to make the door latch slide work.. its kinda a strange set up.

I need to mount the seats and put the driveshaft in, but really theres no reason I wont be able to head around the block.. whenever spring gets here. i do need to work on my brakes still too.. they work... just not right.. Im thinking I may need a different master cylinder.
 
Maybe all the electricity is running out of the bottom of the turn signal switch because it's mounted vertically?

I had one of those old aftermarket turn signal switches that I never could get to work - I think it couldn't handle the brake lights- both sides would blink or nothing would blink.
 
Maybe all the electricity is running out of the bottom of the turn signal switch because it's mounted vertically?

I had one of those old aftermarket turn signal switches that I never could get to work - I think it couldn't handle the brake lights- both sides would blink or nothing would blink.

Most of those add on turn signal switches are for a separate bulb from the brake lights.

That's. Interesting that we have all experienced this... Wonder what the deal is, I don't see why it would need to be a separate bulb... I guess we will see if I ever get it to work... Maybe I will just use the case and put a modern switch in the housing...

Another electrical question... If I'm running a relay for the horn circuit do I need to have a high amperage switch? I'm thinking no, that's the whole point of the relay circuit right?
 
Another electrical question... If I'm running a relay for the horn circuit do I need to have a high amperage switch? I'm thinking no, that's the whole point of the relay circuit right?

You're right. Using a relay allows you to use a low amperage circuit to control a higher amperage circuit eliminating the need for a high amperage switch.
 
A factory turn signal switch in the column routes the brake lights through it, kinda hard to explain how it works, but think of a circle with smaller circles inside of it. Contacts ride on the inner circles, with breaks in the circles that allow the current to flow to one side or the other and still allow the brake light to work on the opposite side.

The only add on ones that I have ever seen that allow a single brake light/turn signal bulb are the ones used on semi trucks. The trucks have single bulb tail lights, while the trailers have dedicated lights for brakes and turn signals. I don't know how they work unless they have extra wires that go to the trailer plug. If you could find one out of an older semi truck, it will look just like what you have now, but will work with a single bulb.
 
There may be another option to your turn signals. Early 2000s Toyotas have separate bulbs for brakes and turn signals. U-haul sells an adapter that is used to convert trailer hookups back to single bulbs. You could probably work something like that in the circuit. They are small enough to fit into the tail light bucket on the toyotas....just a thought. My old after market turn signal switch I used had me stepping and fetching too! I just wired the circuits separate on the rear and have separate bulbs. They work, but now if I place a hitch and try to tow something I'll have to wire an adapter to go back to single bulbs.
 
Bamamav, that's a good explanation, I have never really understood why some turn signal switches worked and some don't. I'm getting ready to change the switch on the '53. I want a momentary and something that looks better.

Maybe Smallfoot's tip will help both of us, Corpo.

Thanks for the info guys.
 
Listen to Bama, He's the man. Your brake light wire must go through the signal light switch and maybe some of the old switches don't allow for that.
Bama's also right about big truck signal light switches, they will work for you.
 
Thanks for all the input guys! I definitely don't have that many wires coming out of my switch as the first diagram shows...

[S
 
I ignored the fight with the turn signals... I will fight on with that later.. spent a bunch of time tidying up all the wires.. still lots more to do on that.. Installed the removable center sections of the floor..


Smallfoot... Any idea on a specific model year range on that Toyota ...sounds like a unique way to possibly fix the issue




added the brass covered button here.. it is my horn, the copper is the high low beam.. indicator light next to it... chipping away

 
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corpo,

man that looks good. I keep waiting for the 10' back pictures. I cant wait to see it outside and done.
 

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