50s Ford F1 Build

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
homemade wide whites?

you guys know you can carefully grind the sidewalls on white letter tires to make DIY wide whitewalls dont you?
I have seen videos of doing this online.
personally I would not do it on new tires... lol
 
you guys know you can carefully grind the sidewalls on white letter tires to make DIY wide whitewalls dont you?
I have seen videos of doing this online.
personally I would not do it on new tires... lol

Yea, I think since they are new I'll leave them how they are, I like the look of a raised white letter tire :)

purty new rubbers!!! White letters out huh?? I thought about doing that..... I need to find a way to get rid of my white letters. they look funny on the front since you can see them on the inside.

I say run them with the whites out! If not, just grab a big sharpie and color them in ;)
 
Yea, I think since they are new I'll leave them how they are, I like the look of a raised white letter tire :)



I say run them with the whites out! If not, just grab a big sharpie and color them in ;)

I agree! I'd have white letter tires on all my vehicles if I could get them. Looked for some when I bought tires for the Vette, nobody makes a 255/40/17 with them. :(
 
Small update, got the lug nuts today and got the front rims on, rear rims I got dropped off at the blast/powder coat place today, still contemplating letting them powdercoat the rears since they mentioned they could do it on monday... if that is the case I'll probably just have them do it so I can get the rear tires on and get the truck at ride height so I can get the driveshaft made in the next couple weeks...

Not bad to blast the wheels $20 a piece for 15", and only $50 a wheel for powder & blast if I choose to do that...
 
That doesnt sound like a bad deal. I usually use the blaster at work, but can't powder coat anything. That would be worth it to me to take my wheels blast and have them coated. Would never have to worry about it again. I have some other stuff I thought it would be cool to do that with but never had the chance.
 
Yea for 15" wheels its not a bad deal at all, when you get to 17" I think they wanted 75 a wheel to blast and PC them... I kinda don't want to spend the money, but I sold a part last weekend that just about covers the cost... so I'm leaning toward a complete rim I can drop off and get the tires on...
 
mock up ideas coming through, everything seems to be working so far

I started mocking up what I think I will do for a header (at least the stubs off the head before the header part - these are 2" just for mock up verification but I'll be running 1.75") and looked at the steering shaft and how it will clear the header. I'll be likely doing a sprint car style setup after the stubs.

I also set the cab back on the frame to verify a few clearances, and I'll also start mocking up the steering column and look at U-joint areas to connect to the Toyota power steering box...

More later tonight I imagine.
 

Attachments

  • DSC05304.jpg
    DSC05304.jpg
    139.7 KB · Views: 54
  • DSC05305.jpg
    DSC05305.jpg
    134.9 KB · Views: 43
  • DSC05306.jpg
    DSC05306.jpg
    120.1 KB · Views: 42
Your ride is really looking nice and clean. You do know this is a rat rod site don't you? just jerking your chain a little. I love it.

Are you planning an open exhaust or mufflers or what?

Keep after it.
 
Your ride is really looking nice and clean. You do know this is a rat rod site don't you? just jerking your chain a little. I love it.

Are you planning an open exhaust or mufflers or what?

Keep after it.

I know, I know, I have a hard time still doing ratty... the body will be ratty... :eek:

I plan on normal mufflers maybe magnaflow or a stock GT or GT500 set of mufflers, and then dumps (Manual mechanical) for some noise when necessary...

Thanks POPS! :)
 
I'm sure the headers will meet the same high standards you have set for every other aspect of your build.

Remember, you said, "Billetproof 2014".
 
Mock up steering time

I've confirmed with the wife, we are going to have the truck there even if its trailered to your place, then driven in from there...

Anyhow, working on steering mockup, seems I'm at about 35 degrees on the column to the steering shaft that connects to the steering box... probably about max... This is just mock up, I'll be using 3/4 DD shaft I imagine because the straight steering column speedway sells has that on it... I need to get the seat in it tomorrow and sort out the steering wheel dish (3 1/2") and make sure the column length I think I need is correct...(Trying to do this without a tilt column, they are not cheap)

Don't mind the measurements, they are just for my reference.

Pics...
 

Attachments

  • DSC05307.jpg
    DSC05307.jpg
    142.3 KB · Views: 70
  • DSC05308.jpg
    DSC05308.jpg
    158.3 KB · Views: 66
  • DSC05309.jpg
    DSC05309.jpg
    139.4 KB · Views: 65
  • DSC05310.jpg
    DSC05310.jpg
    108.9 KB · Views: 63
  • DSC05311.jpg
    DSC05311.jpg
    128.5 KB · Views: 69
  • DSC05312.jpg
    DSC05312.jpg
    120.6 KB · Views: 74
Is that a knuckle in the center? At the 8" mark. Can you lower that an inch or so? That would decrease your column knuckle angle.
 
Is that a knuckle in the center? At the 8" mark. Can you lower that an inch or so? That would decrease your column knuckle angle.

It is just a splined joint, I'm using an old datsun Z car steering shaft for mock up cause that is all I have.

I can't really lower it because the steering box will hit the frame. I imagine I will be dropping the steering wheel side a bit to get within the 35 degree max.
(Still need enough room to get the header stubs below the steering shaft, and still have room to clear the frame & for engine movement)

This is all stuff I have to work out with the seat in, and some sort of better mocked up steering wheel...
 
DR I would suggest raising the lower end of the steering column where it comes through the firewall. That would give you a better angle, more room for the headers and a better steering wheel angle to driver relationship. Just my $.02 [P
 
Hi Dirtyrat, I also was thinking, as I read about your plight, that you could move the bottom end of your column up [like jfg suggested and I had to do on my '36]. You are thinking ahead and correctly that you should have your seat and the steering wheel mocked up, when you test your column changes. Don't forget a really important circumstance, You, the driver better be in place making V-8 noises, and trying to steer. [I learned this the hard way].
Keep on tinkering.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top