56 Ford Fairlane hardtop.

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My Fairlane hasn't been running right for a while and it kept getting worse lately. On the trip to the coolest show in the North the car quit me. I had to haul it home, and then try to figure out what the problem was. My first plan was to change carbs and see if that made a difference. Here is the old Edlebrock that I just took off and the rebuilt Holley now on the manifold.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1650.JPG
    IMG_1650.JPG
    4.1 MB
  • IMG_1651.JPG
    IMG_1651.JPG
    3.8 MB
As far as just driving, I have always had better luck out of elelbrocks. The only issue I ever had was when the inlet screen got blocked by blue silicone (my bad decision).

Racers seem to go fast on holley carbs,but I like my edelbrocks.
 
As far as just driving, I have always had better luck out of elelbrocks. The only issue I ever had was when the inlet screen got blocked by blue silicone (my bad decision).

Racers seem to go fast on holley carbs,but I like my edelbrocks.
I've had good luck with Edelbrocks too. They're pretty much plug and play. The only issues I've ever had with em' were the Q-Jet knockoffs they offered for a couple years.
 
I'm not knocking the Edlebrock, Guys, I just have no idea what's the matter with the car so I will start by trying a different carb. If that cures the problem then I know that I have to clean out the shiny new looking Edlebrock and put it back on. This is just an experiment. I'm more familiar with Holleys, but that black beauty will go on something else, and the chrome one will go back on the car.
 
Over the last few days I've had many problems with the Holley carb, mostly gas spraying out at the inlet and the metering plate. That bunch of miserableness is all fixed up. But the car did not pass the testdrive. So I changed the coil, naa that wasn't it either. Each thing made the drive a wee bit better but not much. So I changed the timing [advanced it] and changed the vacuum advance line to a different carb orifice. Whoooo, a way better. I now have to pull the distributor and turn it one tooth so I can advance it more. And I think I should adjust up the power valve actuator so the car doesn't stumble on early acceleration.
 
There's even more to the 312 tune-up story. Somehow I got the strange idea that maybe my fuel pump was too good and pumping too much pressure so partly flooding the intake. I found an old pump off of a Y-block in my stash of stuff and mounted it on there. Not counting a stumble at easy acceleration off an idle, the car performs nicely. It pulls like a 312 should and doesn't miss and sputter. I'm gaining on the old girl.
 
I asked a couple of knowledgeable guys at the A&W show last night, how to set up the accelerator pump even more. It seems that there are quite a few different nylon cams that are screwed onto the throttle shaft which drive the levers that squash up the pump. Well, mine was the wousiest one, so I found a way more aggressive one on an old carb and swapped them. The subsequent test-drive was heavenly.
 
A strange thing happed a few hours after you posted on Friday, a customer of mine calls and wants me to build him a 56 Ford Gasser using a-arms with ball joint spacers. I suggested using a 312 Y Block and he got excited.
He wants to use a dual 4 tunnel ram too. Don't know where to come up with that.
When it happens I'll do a build thread.
 
OI, this will be cool, but hard to do. You will have to find a 312 crankshaft, but rods and pistons won't be a problem. A three deuce intake is really, really hard to find, but two fours will be even harder, I think. Y-blocks rev up like a small block Chev.
I think Mummert Machine is the place you'll find has all of the Y-block stuff.
I'll be watching for this build.
 
Dual tunnel ram will need to be a O.I. special for sure. Hope it happens, be really interesting to see.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top