clear coat
- Thread starter bb36577
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
Blue Eyed Devil
Devil's Advocate
Very careful wet sanding...
streetrodman
Well-known member
wet sand is the answer......watch the edges
DA34GUY
Well-known member
Good fricken luck.
Why would ya want to strip it only????
Why would ya want to strip it only????
dogpatch1
Well-known member
few questions why are you wanting to strip it anyway? cloudy? cracked?
if its just dull...
start out with a 600 grit wet sand paper, get the good 3m automotive grade not the cheap wallmart stuff. wet sand in small circles WAX ON WAX OFF METHOD! be carefull of curves and edges as to not go thru the base.
after youve wet sanded with 400 grit move up to a finer paper like 800 and do it all over again...
ive went as far as 1200 grit on some custom jobs ive done
finish up with a mirror glaze rubbing compound 3m offers a excellent product use a slow speed buffer taking care not to build up heat and burn the paint or wear thru the edges. clean ur buffing pad every so often by holding a regular screw driver up to the pad and hit the trigger a few times just dont let the screwdriver go thru any windows or ????
after 90 days or so give it a good coat of wax (waiting lets the solvents evap. and not get caught under the wax which is usually what causes haze or cloudyness over time)
if its cracked down to the base theres really nothing you can do but wet sand smooth and panel touch up that door or hood, fender ect.ect.
also a top coat of new clear coat may bring it back to life after wet sanding try it on a hidden faded test area b4 anywhere that is really in view............ good luck dp1
if its just dull...
start out with a 600 grit wet sand paper, get the good 3m automotive grade not the cheap wallmart stuff. wet sand in small circles WAX ON WAX OFF METHOD! be carefull of curves and edges as to not go thru the base.
after youve wet sanded with 400 grit move up to a finer paper like 800 and do it all over again...
ive went as far as 1200 grit on some custom jobs ive done
finish up with a mirror glaze rubbing compound 3m offers a excellent product use a slow speed buffer taking care not to build up heat and burn the paint or wear thru the edges. clean ur buffing pad every so often by holding a regular screw driver up to the pad and hit the trigger a few times just dont let the screwdriver go thru any windows or ????
after 90 days or so give it a good coat of wax (waiting lets the solvents evap. and not get caught under the wax which is usually what causes haze or cloudyness over time)
if its cracked down to the base theres really nothing you can do but wet sand smooth and panel touch up that door or hood, fender ect.ect.
also a top coat of new clear coat may bring it back to life after wet sanding try it on a hidden faded test area b4 anywhere that is really in view............ good luck dp1
Inpusty
Banned
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2009
- Messages
- 3
What do you guys do with the clear coat on areas like your dash, and hard to reach areas, like above the rear side windows under the drip rail? Ive got a light orange peal that Id like to take care of, and am hesitant to get a power buffer in there. Do you hand-buff the compound in those areas after wet sanding?
DA34GUY
Well-known member
Sand up to 3000 then get sore fingres
bigshizzle79
Member
why? huh?
Yodaforce
Active member
Yeah, why? If I had to strip clearcoat off of a basecoat, I would just wetsand it with some 600 and re-paint another basecoat. It would be easier than trying to remove the current clear. Besides, if you sand through the basecaot, then you'll probably have to re-paint anyways.
