My Project 36' Ford Pickup

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Hi agdeuce A while back you were having hydraulic clutch problems, so it brought back memories of quite a few of those horrible clutch linkage set-ups. I've hated hydraulic clutches since the 70's when I started using them. Anyhow, Good work, you are done ahead of me and out there enjoying the fruits of your labour. Happy cruisin'.

Extreme, a note to you, your '38 cab will probably be 2" higher than our '36's. When I started out building I had no drivers door, so I measured other doors and the 1947 Ford drivers door was the right width but too high. There is a guy on here somewhere that has a white '38 cab with '42-'47 doors on it or the other way around, anyhow, I think the '38 to '47 doors interchange. So, to be cool you'll have to chop your cab. [ddd

Hey Mercury Mac thanks for the kind words. We just have to keep plugging along to be able to drive them. It took me 3 years to build mine and I plan on making improvements every winter, finances not withstanding.
The clutch ended up working just like I had hoped. The issue was someone had mentioned that I might not be able to bleed the system because I had installed the slave cylinder on the wrong side of the engine (upside down). I just gravity bled it to start and then pressure bled it. I am not a fan of automatic transmissions for my hot/rat rods. For me they put to much heat into a motor and cost way to much to overhaul. That is just my preference. In the case of this rat my goal was to use all used parts except where safety was an issue. A used automatic is a gamble. I will try and find your build thanks for looking. Keep building away. Later
Hi agdeuce, You solved the bleeding problem on the hydraulic clutch by putting the slave on upside-down, at least now you can gravity bleed it, as the bleed valve is at an extreme end of the system. If there was a bleed valve right at the master cylinder you could get the air out by pressure bleeding. I'm glad it is working for you now.
A while back in your story you said something like "I'm not looking for trophies but I would like some acknowledgement of the work done". I agree wholeheartedly. When someone comes up to you and takes your picture or says good job [with some added adjectives], your pride of workmanship fills your shirt up and rips off some buttons.
Keep on tinkering.
Hey Guys

Thanks for your compliment I appreciate it Oldrodder. I know the thread makes it seem simple to build but if you could see the 250 other pictures it wouldn't seem that way. I have some very good friends and their help was invaluable. You just keep on building away and if a mistake is made that is how we learn.

Justed thanks and believe me we drove the truck like we stole it.

MercuryMac you are right it does help when people appreciate your efforts. I realize that not everyone can like rat rods but I like all vehicles whether they cost a zillion or virtually nothing. I simply don't have or want to spend a lot of money. To me it is more of a challenge to find stuff that works and put it together. After all isn't it for fun.

We have been driving the truck now for 2 seasons and I am not happy with the '40 front brakes. I scored complete sets of 1956 F-100 front brakes and the change over will be one of my winter time projects. I probably will start to rebuild my window regulators because I am tired of the wind buffeting also. My wife doesn't want windows but I told her she could just role them down then. Later

More pictures

Hey all
Just thought I would add these pictures to the build for fun. As I change out my front brakes I will send along some more pictures along with some explanations. Thanks for looking.



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Steve, I liked the way your truck turned out when you built it. Glad you are having fun with it. Small improvements will make it all that much more pleasant to drive.
More thanks

Bob thanks for your kind words and you are right as we drive them we need to make improvements. If for no other reason than we, by nature, are tinkerers. I haven't changed out my brakes as of yet. Life got in the way and now I have taken on a project for someone. I will finish the brakes before driving season because I would like to do some long distance trips and would feel a little bit better about having better brakes. I am also going to put in at least the back window. Too much buffeting from the wind on longer drives. Pretty simple to do and not very costly. Thanks to my friend I have the rear window garnish molding. Just some rust clean-up and stick the glass in. Everyone keep on building and having fun. Later :p

F-100 Brake Conversion

Hey folks:
I finally had the time and money to convert my front brakes from 1940 Ford to 1956 F-100 self energizing. I realize that there have be many articles in the past about this conversion but there has been a request to tell my process. So here goes.
I was able to find a complete front brake setup from a fellow who changed his truck to disc brakes. It was complete and did not have many miles on it.That saved a pile of cash.
Next I took the Timken (14116 bearing and 14276 cup) and National (450461 seal) part numbers to my NAPA store and they got what I needed. NAPA part numbers BR14116 bearing, BR14276 cup and 15214 seal. I also got new brake hoses NAPA part number 16766.
Now the fun begins, disassembly.:eek:


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Last edited:
More F-100 info

I haven't figured out how to continue my thread so I will do it in steps.
One very important step is to grind a radius on the inside edge of the bearing. It has a sharp edge and the axle has a very generous radius on the inner end. If you don't grind the radius the bearing will not seat up far enough. Try and fit the bearing onto the axle and you will see what I mean.
I used my Foredom flex shaft with a grind stone. I taped up the bearing to keep out the grinding stuff and it took some time. I went slow and kept trying the fit until it seated correctly.


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F-100 continued

After I removed the the '40 backing plates I left the brake hoses connected to try and minimize the fluid loss.
The next thing I did was to check the fit of the F-100 backing plates and I needed to grind some of the spindle to clear the wheel cylinder and brake hose.
I used a rotary file and a grinding disk would work as well or even maybe better. Those damn filings that come off that rotary file are like tiny razor blades and I still have some stuck in my fingers. Any way the clearance is necessary.
I also made the hole in my frame brake hose bracket a little larger with the rotary file to accommodate the larger F-100 hose end.
It seemed that the inside diameters of the F-100 backing plates were a little small so I ran the rotary file around the diameter to open it up just a little.
Everything seemed to fit fine now so I bolted up the backing plates. Well I tried to anyway. I ended up changing one of the backing plate bolts to an Allen head bolt for clearance to the grease shield.
Now the next step.:)


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Last but not least of the F-100 saga

Well the last step is to pack the bearings, remove the old and install the new cup and install the bearing and seal. A word of warning here. The new seal is not as thick as the old seal (compare them and you will see). When installing the seal just make it flush with the hub.
Now put it all together and install the brake hoses. I forgot to mention that you will need an adapter to change the brake line from 7/16-20 threads (1940) to 3/8-24 1956 F-100. If you haven't already installed the brake lines then just use a 3/8-24 thread line nut. :rolleyes:


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The end of the F-100 conversion

I hope this was helpful I am sure that the F-100 brakes will make a better brake system and of course disc brakes are best. I wanted to stay "old school" therefore I used the F-100 stuff. If the information about the conversion has any confusion please ask for clarification and everyone keep on building, modifying and having fun. Later all.

More on F-100 brakes

Well I got the brakes installed and bled. The problem I had after that was the new brake hoses did not seat properly in the wheel cylinder. :confused:The threaded area was too short and leaked just a little. I remembered when I took the old hoses off that there was a copper washer installed. It turns out one must be careful and test fit all these after market parts.
The next thing was when I drove the truck back into the shop after installing the right side, even though I swore I was not going to, I stepped on the brakes with the line open. It sprayed fluid all over the wheel and unbeknownst to me got onto the drum and shoes. So when I gave it a drive it pulled every which way. I replaced the shoes with new ones and now I have great brakes.
The bottom line is I have spent as much money on old stuff as it would cost to put disc brakes on. I guess we live and learn. It is still "old school" though. Sometimes we are just too stubborn. So that is the F-100 brake conversion saga it total. Thanks everyone and have fun.

Fantastic write up on the conversion with part numbers to boot! Nice Job. We are going to start collecting parts to do ours.
Good conversion for "old school"

Hey guys. Thanks for reading the thread and I am glad you were able to glean some info from it. I am happy with the end result. I have not gotten the front to rear bias set right yet but I really have just been driving and not setting. We have been having some rain so when it is dry I just drive.
I got my rear window glass yesterday so hopefully I will put that in today. I am tired of the wind buffeting us as we cruise down the road.
I was just thinking and I believe I mentioned it, if you decide to use the conversion PLEASE check the fit of all the parts. It will save a lot of headaches. I will shoot a couple of shots of the rear window install just for fun.
I guess I should get to it, later.

Rear window stuff

Hey all I finally installed a rear window in my cab. Here is the story.

The first thing I did was to make a glass pattern using some thin plywood. As I was making the pattern I put the seal around the wood (without cutting the seal) and kept trying to fit it in the opening. After a few tries I felt that the pattern was close enough to have glass cut. I took it to my glass guy (The Old Car Glass Guy) and he cut a piece right on the pattern.

After that I wire brushed the opening on the cab and then I did the same to the garnish molding. Next I applied some rust converter (Rust Doctor) all over the garnish molding and around the opening.

I let the converter dry for a day and started placing the seal (purchased from Dennis Carpenter) on the glass. While I was putting the seal on I made sure the glass was dry. To prevent wrinkles in the corners I wanted to stretch the seal and if the glass was wet I wouldn't be able to make it stay. I trimmed the seal about 1/4 inch long, just because. Now it was time to fix the seal in place. To do that I used Super Glue (rubber bonding) and applied a small amount to the end of the seal and stuck it together. What do you know no wrinkles and the seal was in place.:)

I put the glass aside and painted the garnish molding. While it was drying I started the glass/seal installation. Oops it was a little to big in a couple of spots. Now what?:eek: [S Aha! I got out my trusty 3 pound hammer and made a few adjustments to the opening. Thank goodness it is a rat 'cause doing something like that to painted rig...well you get the idea. With my trusty "bone" (glass tool) I finagled the seal in place making sure it was not too tight for obvious reasons. Screwed the garnish molding on and now the wind doesn't blow me away. :cool:
Take peek at the photos and hope it helps. Later



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