The Roofus Special

[Flipper_1938]

I wonder if a set of 19" MG TC wires would fit the hubs? or maybe relace the jag center to a bigger hoop? Just some thoughts

Hadn't looked at the MG wheels, but I did ask about having my hubs put in bigger hoops and it was about the same/slightly more than buying all new. I only called one place since I was only daydreaming at the time.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Looking at Alf's roadster body from scratch thread (on the HAMB), I figured out a way to make the t-bucket perch work.

The main crossmember should be on the lower level with the perch rising up and maybe smaller stabalizer tubes running over to the upper frame rails.

Here is a picture of Alf's project

His build thread
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250573

Anybody think this would be a better look than the arched dodge crossmember?

 

[clamor]

Personally, I don't like the raised T perches. They look kinda hack, very unimaginative.
The curved dodge one is unique & I think it will look better.

 

[jfg455]

Personally, I don't like the raised T perches. They look kinda hack, very unimaginative.
The curved dodge one is unique & I think it will look better.

I agree. I would much rather drop the whole spring in relation to the axle than jack up the mount. Besides, the curved dodge piece looks more period correct.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Those perches won't hide the rack too well either.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Those perches won't hide the rack too well either.

The lower crossmember that the perch is mounted to could hide one though.

I think I'm gonna stay with the army truck part. The curve seems to work visually (I just need to figure out how to tie it into the upper frame rails without looking bad).

I think the trick to making the rack mount compact, is figuring out how to take the rack apart and get down to just the rack housing. Fishing the whole thing (tie rods and all) through holes in the crossmember would be a pain. I think I need to get the rack housing installed in the crossmember, and then re-assemble the rack.

Eliminating the rubber boots would also make it a lot smaller. No more than it will be driven, just clean it and re-grease everything as part of routine maintenance?

 

[Flipper_1938]

I kinda wanted to put the reinforcement behind the spring instead of in front, simply to have the spring out in the open. The only thing I can fit between the spring and the radiator would be a plate (with a strengthing rib on the top front edge).

Anybody think this will be strong enough?

 

[jfg455]

A simple 3/16" plate with lightening holes and a top lip will be very strong. Or I could cut "roofus" into it with the CNC plasma cutter instead of holes! [

 

[Sam_Fear]

Yep, I would think that would be plenty strong connected to the army crossmember. That would be cool to have the name CNC'd into it if the spring doesn't hide it.

 

[Flipper_1938]

The spring will probably hide most of the center portion.

 

[rainman]

Seems like it would be more than strong enough, I think it would look even better partially hidden. Sure would be a conversation piece!!

 

[Gastrick]

I'm not a mechanical engineer but I think the plate would be plenty of structural reinforcement.

 

[onetondodge]

What a build, great work. I will be checking in for sure
Paul

 

[PA41]

I think it would be an excellent idea. I've seen a lot of stock cars with that done all through the car as stiffiners for a flexible stock frame. A front and rear engine plate bolted to the engine and the frame without rubber would be a good thing too. Use the engine as a structrural member to stiffen the frame. It makes the car kinda 'buzzy', but you can really feel the machine and the road--no flexi/floaty stuff--lotsa input.

PA41

 

[Flipper_1938]

I think it would be an excellent idea. I've seen a lot of stock cars with that done all through the car as stiffiners for a flexible stock frame. A front and rear engine plate bolted to the engine and the frame without rubber would be a good thing too. Use the engine as a structrural member to stiffen the frame. It makes the car kinda 'buzzy', but you can really feel the machine and the road--no flexi/floaty stuff--lotsa input.

PA41

I think my motor is gonna be rubber mounted. With a little luck, I plan to put some miles on this one.

 

[PA41]

I think my motor is gonna be rubber mounted. With a little luck, I plan to put some miles on this one.

Yeah-for long drives, the solid mounted motor will get ya. My stock cars didn't have any rubber anywhere, and sometimes I had eye problems in long races. The car vibrated so hard I had trouble focusing. Also in a wreck (which was often for me) you have a big chance of breaking your motor.

The thing was almost alive though, and the rigidity made it much more predictable handeling. Raw, purpose built, performance cars almost have a soul. Like a dog born to hunt, or a horse born to run, no pets, nothing but business..

PA41

 

[Flipper_1938]

If anybody has any great ideas on how to mount the rack or how to make the bulkhead look cooler/be stronger, please tell me your ideas today.

In the morning, I plan on cutting some steel and welding this thing up solid according to my latest sketch (maybe with belled lightening holes. I have to try the technique suggested by one of the guys on RRT first).

 

[Flipper_1938]

I played with it a little this weekend.

The inner rod ends did come off quite easily.

I don't think scraper style seals will work worth a darn. It needs boots. I hope to find something that looks cooler than stock toyota though.

Did more figuring on how to get the rack inside the crossmember

 

[Flipper_1938]

And then went after it with a torch.

After a little grinding.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Then I remembered I still need to trim the crossmember more so it sits lower. The rack needs to go up more to clear the inner frame rails at that height.

The rack is not really hidden under the crossmember. This is where I stopped to think if this is really what I want to do.