dodge truck chop

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thanks for the positive feedback everyone.

a couple more pics, to show how i made the section of drip rail to match the original.

DSCN4832.jpg

DSCN4833.jpg
 
Tim the piece clecod in is there for fitment. Be care full if you use aluminum to back it it can still stick and then will be a pain to get off.

Flipper I curl my relief cuts in the corners because it helps to expand or shining the entire corner with no bumps or anything

Does it matter where in the corner and how far up. looks like you marked it once and then cut it in a different place.
 
i usually do the relief cuts in the center of the area that needs to shrink or expand. so it is different every time. i drew the line to show some one at the shop how i was going to get it to line back, since i wasnt ready to do the cut yet. as far as height you just have to get the feel for it, but you want the curl to be on the rounded part of the corner so it shrinks or expands the hole corner
 
well finished it up on thursday, just have not had much to post pics. heading to the glass shop tomorrow. hope it comes back to have me shorten the wheel base up a bit.

DSCN4838.jpg

DSCN4839.jpg

DSCN4835.jpg

DSCN4837.jpg
 
thanks for the positive feedback everyone.

a couple more pics, to show how i made the section of drip rail to match the original.

DSCN4832.jpg

DSCN4833.jpg


Awesome chop! You really do great work[cl

How did you make the drip rail?

Also was that missing section made from part of the door you choped?

Thank you for the pictures, they really help guys like me who have never done one
 
Sorry I have another question,

What size mig wire are you using for this sheet metal work?
 
i just made the drip rail and section of the roof that was missing on the bead roller and sheet metal brake, if i get a chance i will make a sample piece and document the steps, the only part i used out of the removed sections of the doors was to stretch the upper door frame. but that also needed heavily modified as the tops of the doors had have more bends and curves on the inner structure.

for most of my larger sheet metal work i run .023 wire
 
i just made the drip rail and section of the roof that was missing on the bead roller and sheet metal brake, if i get a chance i will make a sample piece and document the steps, the only part i used out of the removed sections of the doors was to stretch the upper door frame. but that also needed heavily modified as the tops of the doors had have more bends and curves on the inner structure.

for most of my larger sheet metal work i run .023 wire

Thank you for the great reply. You do great work! I look forward to the tutorial on the drip rail! I wish I lived closer to you
 
Thanks for the info.

i usually do the relief cuts in the center of the area that needs to shrink or expand. so it is different every time. i drew the line to show some one at the shop how i was going to get it to line back, since i wasnt ready to do the cut yet. as far as height you just have to get the feel for it, but you want the curl to be on the rounded part of the corner so it shrinks or expands the hole corner

That cab work is looken good.
 
here is how i made the drip rail sections.

all the bend lines laid out
DSCN4844.jpg


the bead roller, with a tipping die on the top, and nylon skate board wheel on the bottom
DSCN4845.jpg


these two lines are rolled on the bead roller
DSCN4847.jpg


then it is placed in the break to get the top edge folded over
DSCN4851.jpg


and you get this
DSCN4852.jpg


then it is placed back in the brake to flatten out the bend
DSCN4853.jpg


and you get this
DSCN4854.jpg


then rolled back through the bead roller to define the round shape
DSCN4855.jpg

DSCN4856.jpg


then back to the brake to make the folded edge for the outer edge of the drip rail.
DSCN4857.jpg
 
then you get this, and back to the brake to finish the fold
DSCN4858.jpg

DSCN4859.jpg


and here you have this.
DSCN4860.jpg


still in the break you finish up the last two bends
DSCN4861.jpg

DSCN4862.jpg

DSCN4863.jpg


end result
DSCN4865.jpg

DSCN4866.jpg


here is the the original drip rail with and a pic of the one i made tacked in
DSCN4868.jpg

DSCN4833.jpg
 
That is some nice work. You really have to do a project like this to understand how much talent, skill, and patience it takes to have a finished product as nice as this. Up until a few weeks ago, I would've seriously underestimated the work involved with this. Not any more...

How do those "clico" clamps work exactly? Look like they would have seriously helped me out. Are they reusable or throwaways?
 
it is hard to describe how they work i will get some pics of how they work. and they are reusable, much better than sheet metal screws

and thanks for the compliments, i still have a long way to go to be at the level i want to build at.
 

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