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As Don said mock the frame up to ride hiegth and see where the bones are in relationship to the frame. Chances are good you won't have to do anything. If you do, you will need to do this anyway to figure out the amount to be removed. Ron

Take a look at a '33 chevy for body measurements Ron

When your looking for doors, include the truck doors in your search. they were the same as the passenger cowl you have. Ron

thanks Unk, worked like a charm. It damn near fell out! Ron

It's your truck, build it for you. The approval will come. I'd patch the floor before the chop. Anything you can do to stablize the body will pay dividends. For the dash, you have several options. A stock one, yuk, a flat panel, yuk again, or swap another one in :) , That might save you some...

Can anyone tell me how to remove the bearing race from the inside of the steering box off a '51 F-1? Ron

I like to draw a sketch and list the parts I need to find and the ones I have. The next step is the tough one waiting til I have the missing parts before disassembly. I like to have 90% of the parts before I even start a project. That way once I start, I can keep on going. I don't have to wait...

The tank came from the Hot rod Co. in Jefferson Wisc. It's a repro T tank. They also make a round T tank. www,thehotrodcompany.com Ron

Got a little more done so it's time to chew on your ears again. Made up the gas tank saddle.... and with the tank.... sitting on the frame. I'll weld it there next time I blow it apart. Also got the mounts for the friction shocks made. Here's the front shocks and lite bar checking for...

The "sckool bus" story was cool. I bought a '29 sedan from a guy that had used it for years as an ice fishing house. It was on skids which made it real easy to wench up on the trailer. Ron

The "sckool bus" story was cool. I bought a '29 sedan from a guy that had used it for years as an ice fishing house. It was on skids which made it real easy to wench up on the trailer. Ron

I would cut the sedan posts off and form a pair of posts to bolt to the cowl. A friend of mine did this using the tapered legs off a kitchen cail he bought at a thrift store. For the frame, a lenght of 7/8", 16 or 14 ga. tubing with a 3/8" slot cut in it will work. To set the glass, use silicone...

I would cut the sedan posts off and form a pair of posts to bolt to the cowl. A friend of mine did this using the tapered legs off a kitchen cail he bought at a thrift store. For the frame, a lenght of 7/8", 16 or 14 ga. tubing with a 3/8" slot cut in it will work. To set the glass, use silicone...

Sorry Gastrick, It was a trick question. I've been watching for a quickie for the last 6 months. New units are fetching $1300 and used ones aren't but a couple hundred less. Being retired now, that kind of money is hard to come by. I started digging around in my scrap bin and found enough to...

I wanted the tie rod to run inside of the hair pins. The axle isn't any further ahead of the front cross member than a suicide mount with the spring behind the axle. Don't have to reshape the spindle arms this way. Bought the bat wings from Speedway. The tie rod hit them before full lock so...

Time for a little up date. Been busy with other folks' projects so progress has been slow. Got it up as a roller today so I thought I'd post pics. Here's a shot of the very rare Harold quickie. The front axle with the 4th perch. Yup ...built 3 others that I didn;t like. The gizzmo on the...

The biggest reason ball or Heim ends fail is because of improper installation. The bolt going through the ball should be at a 90 degree angle to the body of the heim. If the flats on the ball enter the race, the lining will wear out quickly causing excess clearences which in turn causes failure...

Just a note here about the length of your hair pins. Keep the location of your steering box in mind when setting your front end up. If possible you want the drag link to be the same length as the hair pins. Keeping the two parallel to each other is important too. Ron

I should add, use DCRP (direct current reversed polarity) to ball the end. the ball should not be any bigger than 1-1/2 times the dia. of the tungsten. A larger ball means you have too much current. Don't forget to switch back to alternating current for welding. Ron

If you dip the tungsten causing a ball, you want to clip the end off before sharping it again. That ball will contaminate your grinding wheel. When welding aluminum, grinding a little cone on the end of your tungsten and then hold it 1/2" or so from a piece of brass and hit your peddle. This...