International L122 B Binder Rat Build

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Thermostats typically let the water back into the block, so that is your flow direction....
You sure there is not a baffle plate mid way making it a dual pass?

My common sense is kicking in here to say NO, there is not a baffle plate.
Photo looking onto the filler neck to the bottom:
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So if my thinking is correct, this radiator has hot fluid pumped from the water into the bottom, filling from bottom to top.
Cool fluid exits the top to the thermostat letting it into the engine. Correct?

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Am I making this more complicated then it should be?
 
Water flow

Ok not sure how ALL are made,but I think they all work the same? On my BBC 427 talldeck in my sedan the hot water from the block comes out of block through thermostat to radiator (TOP HOSE)! From radiator (BOTTOM HOSE) to water pump back into block.
As I understand it the cool water goes down and hot water will rise.
The reason your radiator looks the way it does is because it is a cross flow.
 
I think I probably have led you astray, the V8s are typically just the opposite of what I had posted.
Thermostat lets the water out when opened, to the top hose of the radiator. I'll post a pic of a typical V8, and then a pic of how some of the newer model coolant flow systems work.
 
Pics

There is a limit on pdf size, so I cant post a single page that I wanted, however I assure you, newer coolant systems use the T-stat in the opposite fashion. The attached pic is of a typical old school coolant flow system.
 

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I have thought about using a crossflow turned 90 a couple of times - I'm thinking of changing the F2Stang to a 31 Ford grille. Turnng the radiator 90 would make that cheaper.

Suely, someone has actually done it and knows if it actaully works.
 
I think I probably have led you astray, the V8s are typically just the opposite of what I had posted.
Thermostat lets the water out when opened, to the top hose of the radiator. I'll post a pic of a typical V8, and then a pic of how some of the newer model coolant flow systems work.

No sweat man. It makes sense now. The thermostat has to see the temp of the coolent to open so it HAS to come from there 1st, then hot water stays at the top of the radiator till it cools, cause that's what science says :D so as it cools, it falls to the bottom ready to be pumped back into the engine.

I'm going to take the radiator to my buddy's house so he can tig weld the cap back on the "top" today.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Now I can start building the grill shell [cl
 
Back to the steering column, cause the radiator is driving me NUTS!


The plate idea was PERFECT!
I patched the crappy hole on the firewall, then shortened the steering shaft 3" with butt welding and 10 plug welds with tubing inside the 1" shaft.
Got the end of the steering shaft up as high as it needs to be to have the rest run right across the top of the frame rail and still have clearance for the exhaust.

On the inside of the cab I have a 1/8" plate that will bolt to the firewall after it gets fully welded to the columns tube.


Lotta dang work to move the thing up 2"!!!!!

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We've all had those moments of "Damn, why did I go and weld that all in"?
I've done it a couple times on this project already and had to go back and cut pieces back out.

Besides, looks much better, and its the right angle, and depth, nice work!
 
We've all had those moments of "Damn, why did I go and weld that all in"?
I've done it a couple times on this project already and had to go back and cut pieces back out.

Besides, looks much better, and its the right angle, and depth, nice work!

I'm glad to hear that someone thinks it's the right angle and height! :D
Especially since I have no idea WHAT the right angle and height is :rolleyes:

I am quite familiar with u joint angles when it comes to a driveshaft so I'm kind of carrying that knowledge to this aspect as well. I was going to check the angle to see what it's set at now.
Is there a "max" usable angle on u joints on steering shafts like driveshafts?
15* or something?
Obviously, I won't have to be worried about vibration like I would a driveshaft but bind is defiantly a concern.


edit: Max 30* on all u joint angles. I will keep it below this. Better check to make sure i meet that requirement now :)
 
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Well thanks to Mr Gusset, *I got my half a gas tank that I'll use for my intake :) it's off an*allis chalmer tractor......whatever the heck that is :)
I've been thinking hard about what I want to do with this thing and now that I have it, I can put my thoughts in stone......or metal :)

I like the overall shape of it as it compliments all the curves on the truck.*
I am going to trim the grill shell with the same 1/2" tubing and I'll tie the top of the grill into the bottom of the air cleaner.*
The bottom of the air cleaner will come to a long point and the top of the grill will also come to a long point and I'll make the 2 meet together in one 1/2" tube above the fan. I'll be able to disconnect the 2 pieces but I think it'll be a neat idea.*

For those of you that have read the entire build, you might remember that I am building my own grill shell and will be using copper for the vertical pieces. Well, I think I'm going to do the same with the air cleaner to help tie it all in even more :)

Enjoy some progress photos.
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might want to drill some holes in the back, bottom of the scoop to let the air/water out. It will catch everything!
 
might want to drill some holes in the back, bottom of the scoop to let the air/water out. It will catch everything!

Ahhh good point!
I was thinking it would be more like a sail and catch wind an 120 MPH :rolleyes:
But the dirt and water aspect is a good thought. Maybe that's my excuse to build a louver tool and go to town on the base plate :)
 

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